Clutch fork movement ??

PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 9:37 am

I've just got the engine back in and I'm not happy with the movement on the clutch fork. Seems like it goes a long way back untill release bearing touches clutch housing. All I've done to the clutch is have friction plate refaced, and now release bearing. One pic is of fork pulled forward so bearing is back towards gearbox, other pic is with arm back and its close to the face of the bellhousing opening. Also the push rod is adjusted almost to the end and I can just about get it out of the fork. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like I may have to pull the engine again but don't know what I'm looking for
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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 9:40 am

Pic of pushrod.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Apr 03, 2022 11:02 am

Some history of what you have done would help as it appears you have mismatched components in some way

What clutch and release bearing have you fitted. It looks like the clutch is without the platen on the spring fingers and with round nose bearing acting directly on the fingers?

These were standard on a Plus 2 5 speeds ( and I believe 70's escorts) and they require a different bearing carrier. Your car appears to be a 4 speed Plus 2 ? Have you changed the gearbox and not the bearing carrier perhaps.

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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 11:45 am

Hi Rohan, Only things that are different is new release bearing and had the original friction plate fitted with new linings, both came from sue Miller. Didn't have a platten when it came apart. Release bearing looked same as old one. Original pressure plate.
Thanks. Alan
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Old bearing
20220403_131354.jpg and
Old bearing
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Apr 03, 2022 2:47 pm

Hi,
If it’s a 4 speed it’s has to have a platen. If not ..
1) The bearing will be too far away and the clutch arm will need to move further towards the clutch, thus your adjusting rod will have to compensate by winding the nut along.
2) Bearing will wear quicker.

Looks like the wrong friction plate to me.

I’ve just had a load of grief with a 5 speed box and a new pressure and clutch plate which resulted in me making a bespoke carrier bearing. This was due to tolerances of new parts.

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PostPost by: Craven » Sun Apr 03, 2022 4:49 pm

It almost looks as if the bearing is fitted back to front!
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PostPost by: promotor » Sun Apr 03, 2022 5:17 pm

Does your clutch cover look like this, with a central thrust pad?

Cover 001.JPG
Cover 001.JPG (91.69 KiB) Viewed 4677 times


Photo taken from this thread, which may be of interest :

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=32329
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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 5:29 pm

Should have said, yes its a 4 speed. Pulled engine again now. Nothing obvious, the D ring had come out of one of the seats, but could that have happened from pulling the engine?. I have all the parts on the bench and found the spring clips don't really hold the D ring in place , it's all quite loose really. Should the spring clips be holding it all tight together? The new bearing is the same as the original, the pressure plate is original, the friction plate is original with new friction material, there was no platten when I took it all apart originally, and clutch was working OK.
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Loose assembly falls apart
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20220403_165358.jpg and
Does this clip look OK?
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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 5:30 pm

Hi Promotor, no doesn't have the platten.
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PostPost by: promotor » Sun Apr 03, 2022 5:41 pm

friedy wrote:Should have said, yes its a 4 speed. Pulled engine again now. Nothing obvious, the D ring had come out of one of the seats, but could that have happened from pulling the engine?. I have all the parts on the bench and found the spring clips don't really hold the D ring in place , it's all quite loose really. Should the spring clips be holding it all tight together? The new bearing is the same as the original, the pressure plate is original, the friction plate is original with new friction material, there was no platten when I took it all apart originally, and clutch was working OK.



When you mention "platten" are you referring to the thrust plate? If so, then the clutch with that bearing and bearing carrier should be used with a thrust plate regardless of how it came to pieces.
To avoid my confusion (very easy to confuse me!), have you a photo of your clutch cover?
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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 6:12 pm

Only pic I have at moment of clutch cover. I can get a better view tomorrow.
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PostPost by: SENC » Sun Apr 03, 2022 6:16 pm

It looks to me like the fingers are too recessed - that may need adjusting.
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun Apr 03, 2022 6:19 pm

Looks like to me that you have a mismatch between the thrust bearing and the pressure plate!
For the pressure plate shown in your photo (no flat surface plate, just straight thrust bearing pressure on diaphragm fingers) you you need the bevel edge thrust bearing and not the flat thrust bearing you are currently using.
You need to either change the thrust bearing or the pressure plate you currently have fitted to get compatibility!

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PostPost by: promotor » Sun Apr 03, 2022 6:54 pm

alanr wrote:Looks like to me that you have a mismatch between the thrust bearing and the pressure plate!
For the pressure plate shown in your photo (no flat surface plate, just straight thrust bearing pressure on diaphragm fingers) you you need the bevel edge thrust bearing and not the flat thrust bearing you are currently using.
You need to either change the thrust bearing or the pressure plate you currently have fitted to get compatibility!

Alan


The bonus is that it will probably cost the same to either change the clutch cover, or change the bearing and the carrier to the correct ones.

To friedy - to use the clutch cover you currently have you need a mk1 escort twincam / rs1600 carrier and bearing - you need a round nosed bearing when using the bearing directly on flat clutch cover fingers.
To use the bearing and carrier you currently have, you need the same clutch cover as in the photo I posted above.

One thing to note though is that the fingers of your clutch appear to be facing in towards the flywheel - if they are indeed as they appear it will make for the clutch feeling slightly heavier as the clutch isn't working at its most efficient like that. That probably won't be rectified by changing the clutch cover though. That brings me on to the next point - is the friction plate material thicker or thinner than the old material? I guess the old one was down to the rivets?
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PostPost by: friedy » Sun Apr 03, 2022 7:20 pm

I can see what you mean about my clutch cover, definitely doesn't look correct. I will take it off tomorrow and also take a pic of the friction plate incase that's not correct either. The old friction plate wasnt to rivets it was getting contaminated with oil. Thanks for you help it's appreciated.
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