Clutch return spring
32 posts
• Page 1 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
In the ever evolving tale of what Spyder has forgotten / bal*'d up / not bothered to do.
It would appear that the clutch return spring is missing.
What would be the effect of this? Does it really matter?
At the moment the gearchange gets progressively worse the warmer the car gets. Its fine when cold.
It would appear that the clutch return spring is missing.
What would be the effect of this? Does it really matter?
At the moment the gearchange gets progressively worse the warmer the car gets. Its fine when cold.
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
..and keeps the operating arm in contact with the push-rod,in contact with the piston and stops any parts from going missing...
John
John
-
john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4521
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Thanks for the replies.
Drat! I suppose that means I'll have to do something. If only a quick temporary bodge.
On a side issue, does anyone know if the spyder chassis can be jacked up at the front under the vacuum tank?
Drat! I suppose that means I'll have to do something. If only a quick temporary bodge.
On a side issue, does anyone know if the spyder chassis can be jacked up at the front under the vacuum tank?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
I would have thought the car would not be driveable without a clutch return spring . . . but you mention the gearchange is getting progressively worse which implies it is driveable. I might be missing something.
The springs are available from the usual suppliers.
Best
Steve
The springs are available from the usual suppliers.
Best
Steve
1967 S3 SE DHC
1970 +2S (RIP - went out in a blaze of glory in 2001)
1970 +2S (RIP - went out in a blaze of glory in 2001)
-
Stevie-Heathie - Third Gear
- Posts: 276
- Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Hi Vince
I have on occasions jacked up my ?lan +2 on the tubular section that houses the vacuum reservoir. Put in soft padding to stop any gouging or cutting and or make a fitment to hold the tube so it don't slip off. The spring is readily available. It goes on and comes off quite easily and has to come off for the gap setting of the adjuster. I got my spring from Sue Miller.
Hope this helps
best of luck
Bob
I have on occasions jacked up my ?lan +2 on the tubular section that houses the vacuum reservoir. Put in soft padding to stop any gouging or cutting and or make a fitment to hold the tube so it don't slip off. The spring is readily available. It goes on and comes off quite easily and has to come off for the gap setting of the adjuster. I got my spring from Sue Miller.
Hope this helps
best of luck
Bob
- bob_rich
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 555
- Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Stevie-Heathie wrote:I would have thought the car would not be driveable without a clutch return spring . . . but you mention the gearchange is getting progressively worse which implies it is driveable. I might be missing something.
The finger springs on the clutch pressure plate will cause it (the clutch) to disengage. This spring is really about getting the hardware that forces the release bearing into those springs and the bearing itself back to a relaxed state. It is important in this role but not critical. Without it, as noted the release bearing may stay partially engaged, wearing it out much sooner, and the bits of the engagement linkage on the outside are free to wiggle back and forth and maybe fall off.
You can find a spring like this at any hardware store, it only needs to be strong enough to return the slave piston to its resting location. A stronger spring will increase pedal effort and pull things back more quickly.
- denicholls2
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 550
- Joined: 23 Jan 2006
bob_rich wrote:Hi Vince
I have on occasions jacked up my ?lan +2 on the tubular section that houses the vacuum reservoir. Put in soft padding to stop any gouging or cutting and or make a fitment to hold the tube so it don't slip off.
best of luck
Bob
If necessary I shall make up a wooden U to fit over the vacuum tank. This is very much a Plan B as I have another idea how to raise it up to a working height.
denicholls2 wrote:You can find a spring like this at any hardware store, it only needs to be strong enough to return the slave piston to its resting location. A stronger spring will increase pedal effort and pull things back more quickly.
As it happens I was given a spring my the recovery service mechanic to solve a problem created by a previous, somewhat more dangerous , example of poor assembly.
As long as it is short enough to pull the release lever back, it will do for now. I'll add a "proper" spring to the growing list of bits to get.
Vince
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
dgym wrote:please don't jack it from under the tank. Previous owners ruined my chassis doing this.
With a Spyder chassis?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
It probably will not be necessary - I have a cunning plan!
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
If you do decide to buy one the correct one is available here :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Fork-R ... SwT5tWHPLg
HTH
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Fork-R ... SwT5tWHPLg
HTH
-
promotor - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 796
- Joined: 16 Mar 2012
32 posts
• Page 1 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests