Clutch Biting Point Very High
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Hi all,
I picked my car up from Option 1 today (it looks fantastic!). They had the engine out during the restoration. I had a new clutch fitted last year and it was working great, and has only done 600 miles at most, but now the biting point is at the very top of the travel. It makes it quite awkward to drive smoothly. Otherwise it works as it should, no slip, just makes it tricky to use smoothly.
I'd really appreciate some suggestions as to what might be the cause of this.
Thank you!
Adi
I picked my car up from Option 1 today (it looks fantastic!). They had the engine out during the restoration. I had a new clutch fitted last year and it was working great, and has only done 600 miles at most, but now the biting point is at the very top of the travel. It makes it quite awkward to drive smoothly. Otherwise it works as it should, no slip, just makes it tricky to use smoothly.
I'd really appreciate some suggestions as to what might be the cause of this.
Thank you!
Adi
1967 Elan S3 S/E FHC
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adigra - Third Gear
- Posts: 442
- Joined: 01 May 2009
I should also add that no parts were changed at Option 1, just put back. The master cylinder and the slave cylinder are also fresh, about 2 years old.
I know that in the past there were suggestions made about shortening the actuating rod, but how would I do that, and more confusingly, why if it was fine before?
I know that in the past there were suggestions made about shortening the actuating rod, but how would I do that, and more confusingly, why if it was fine before?
1967 Elan S3 S/E FHC
-
adigra - Third Gear
- Posts: 442
- Joined: 01 May 2009
Actuating rod that protrudes from slave cylinder is adjustable (well it is on mine anyway), you should be able to get the pedal to bite lower down I think?
- robertverhey
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 694
- Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Thank you. That seems to be the conclusion, as Frank from Option 1 says they probably set it too tight. I don't have the time to look at it until the weekend, but I feel happier now. After a very long day yesterday going to pick the car up I was feeling really frazzled.
1967 Elan S3 S/E FHC
-
adigra - Third Gear
- Posts: 442
- Joined: 01 May 2009
Setting the clearance between the slave cylinder push rod adjusting nut and the clutch release arm according to the work shop manual has always worked well for me. The clearance should be 0.08" (2.0 mm) as shown in the drawing in the manual. First make sure that the clutch is bled completely and that the slave piston is not retracted into the slave cylinder bore too far. I find that in bleeding the clutch it is necessary to get the air out then stroke the clutch pedal a few times to make sure the clutch release arm is moving and then check for air in the hydraulics once again.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: 09 Nov 2006
Hi,
I think you need to check and then adjust the push rod in the clutch master cylinder. Sounds to me as this has been wrongly set up. Cant remember the setting, but its clearly shown in the manual. Hope this helps.
George.
I think you need to check and then adjust the push rod in the clutch master cylinder. Sounds to me as this has been wrongly set up. Cant remember the setting, but its clearly shown in the manual. Hope this helps.
George.
George McC.
1968 S4 Elan dhc.(now sold)
1973 Plus2 S130/5
1994 Elan M100 S2
1968 S4 Elan dhc.(now sold)
1973 Plus2 S130/5
1994 Elan M100 S2
- mcclelland
- Second Gear
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 13 Apr 2006
The master cylinder push rods have a fixed length whereas the slave cylinder push rod has adjustable length. One problem is that replacement master cylinders never come with the correct length push rod, I have always had to re-use the original master cylinder push rod.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
-
CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: 09 Nov 2006
Thank you gentlemen, really appreciate it.
I haven't looked at it yet (tough deadline this week) but am now fairly certain it's the slave cylinder pushrod (as Frank from O1 confirmed). Everything was set up properly when the clutch was replaced last year, and it worked perfectly, no parts were changed since and nothing was worn out as the car has been at the paintshop, so it's logical it will be the adjustment, especially since I was told they set it up tighter.
I must say I had assumed the slave cylinder was self adjusting, like the modern ones, so I am really grateful for the info and support from you who posted here. Another lesson learned. Thank you.
Adi
I haven't looked at it yet (tough deadline this week) but am now fairly certain it's the slave cylinder pushrod (as Frank from O1 confirmed). Everything was set up properly when the clutch was replaced last year, and it worked perfectly, no parts were changed since and nothing was worn out as the car has been at the paintshop, so it's logical it will be the adjustment, especially since I was told they set it up tighter.
I must say I had assumed the slave cylinder was self adjusting, like the modern ones, so I am really grateful for the info and support from you who posted here. Another lesson learned. Thank you.
Adi
1967 Elan S3 S/E FHC
-
adigra - Third Gear
- Posts: 442
- Joined: 01 May 2009
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