+2 130/5 clutch judder

[M.J.S]

My +2 130/5 has a horrible clutch judder when hot, perfect when cold, but drive for ten miles and it judders its brains out, especially in reverse.

A brand new uprated clutch was fitted by Kelvedon Lotus a few years ago when the gearbox was overhauled and it has covered just 3000 miles since.

Looking at past posts I've followed previous guidelines.

There is no trace of slip.

There are no gear selection problems.

Every rubber mount is either new or like new.

Any ideas folks? Being stuck in slow moving traffic is a filling loosening nightmare.

I assume the whole engine/gearbox unit has to be lifted out to have a shufty. I've never had to pull one before.

Cheers.

Mark.

[lotusfan]

Hi Mark

Two thoughts for you, neither of which you will like. The first is that the friction material is worn down on the clutch plate and it distorts when it gets hot, I had a similar problem on a car and that was the problem. The other possibility is a worn spigot bearing in the flywheel which lets the first motion shaft wobble about when the clutch is depressed, that is a bit unlikely because it is not temperature related.

No good news I am afraid - good luck.

[gjz30075]

Once the clutch shudder happens, there's a good chance of a now warped flywheel. So, even if you changed the pressure plate and disc, the shudder could still be there because the warped flywheel won't allow a smooth engagement. Also, make sure the surface the throwout bearing rides on is smooth with no burrs anywhere.

Get your flywheel resurfaced and make sure there are no oil leaks there.

Good luck,
Greg Z

[david.g.chapman]

Before you do anything else, re-check the condition of your engine and gearbox mounts closely - look for cracks and separation of rubber from metal. Probe with a screwdriver to check the bonding. The exhaust side engine mount will soften when hot and give you the judder you are describing, if not in perfect condition.

I changed to a TTR uprated mount on that side to counter a similar problem. The mount has RTV like material injected into the space at the top of the standard mount to firm it up a bit.

Dave Chapman.

[M.J.S]

Interesting point Dave, may I ask from where you purchased the mounting?

Cheers, Mark.

[davidfost]

Having experienced exactly the same symptoms, I changed all the mounts (no difference) and finally resigned myself to rear crank oil seal failure. Do you have engine oil leaking from the bellhousing area? You can try burning off the oil when the engine is warm, stationary, select top gear, foot on brake, 4000rpm, slip clutch till it smells. If its ok after that for a while (and you haven't set fire to the car), you need to change the clutch and oil seal. Mine is now perfectly smooth, even in (lower ratio) reverse, cold and hot. Transforms the car in traffic after living with the judder way too long.

[david.g.chapman]

The engine mount is from Tony Thompson - they call it a heavy duty mount I believe.

Dave Chapman.

[b-havers]

What about the way the clutch pump and hose is located? Just centimetres from the hot exhaust..
Guess the fluid works as when very hut brakes; get airy - and stops working..

Just an idea...

[b-havers]

What about the way the clutch pump and hose is located? Just centimetres from the hot exhaust..
Guess the fluid works as when very hot brakes; get airy - and stops working..

Just an idea...


Sorry for the double post, tried to correct a misspelling...

[1964 S1]

Hello Mark, I think you've got a bunch of good ideas from the posts before mine. Try heat shielding your clutch line from the exhaust and see if that makes a difference. I always go for the simple solutions first. The oil leak question is another good one. Do you see oil dripping from the front edge of the bell housing?
If all else fails, before you pull the engine to get to the clutch, I'd try burning the high spots off in first gear, have some fun, and see it you can remove them racing away from red lights like you were a teenager, slip the clutch at high revs a bit, seriously.
If none of this works, then I gotta agree, you may have to resurface your flywheel when you replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. Good Luck, this is a tricky one.
Eric