Clutch adjustment

[Robbie693]

The bite point on my clutch is in the top 3rd of the pedal travel, which seems a bit high to me. Is this an adjustment issue or could it be caused by a worn slave cylinder?

The slave is the only hydraulic thing I haven't replaced and doesn't appear to be leaking (at least, not the last time I looked). If this could cause the problem I'll just get a new one rather than faffing about.. In other words I'm asking rather than inspecting 'cos it's easier

[triumphelan]

It could be an adjustment problem ,or a wearing clutch .Check that you can just revolve the actuating rod between slave and clutch arm ,you only need minimal clearance [/b]

[gjz30075]

You can build in some slack in the mechanism to move the bite point down. Check to see that you're not too tight on the slave push rod. There should be a small amount of clearance between the nut on the threaded rod and the fork.

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

"Check that you can just revolve the actuating rod between slave and clutch arm ,you only need minimal clearance [/b]"

An interesting point you've made there John.

The gearchange on my S4 was great until I did a major rebuild of the car.
I adjusted the clearance between the slave cylinder push rod & clutch arm "to the book" & since then have been mildly crashing my gears on upwards & downward gearchanges frequently
I have been putting the blame on re-built-up selector forks that a company put into my G/box, thinking these were affecting the "synchro".
Will adjusting, as you suggest, not cause the clutch release bearing to be in light but constant contact & subsequently permanently rotating?
I'm genuinly interested in getting the crash out of my gear changes & have a second G/box that I have been intending to install but if reducing the clutch arm clearance is the way to go; I'm going to give it a try

Cheers
John