Frame / Chassis dipping
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Hi all,
I have a very good, original but not new Lotus Chassis. It is not Galvanised.
I was wondering the best way to go to protect the Chassis for the years to come and I am considering getting the chassis dipped by Surface Processing Ltd or someone similar, to remove any surface rust and then what they call "electrophoretic coating"
Does anyone have any views or experiece of such companies?
I could just paint it, but I don't think I will reach all the hidden nooks and crannies......
Kind regards
Jeff
I have a very good, original but not new Lotus Chassis. It is not Galvanised.
I was wondering the best way to go to protect the Chassis for the years to come and I am considering getting the chassis dipped by Surface Processing Ltd or someone similar, to remove any surface rust and then what they call "electrophoretic coating"
Does anyone have any views or experiece of such companies?
I could just paint it, but I don't think I will reach all the hidden nooks and crannies......
Kind regards
Jeff
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jeff jackson - Third Gear
- Posts: 360
- Joined: 31 May 2004
A few years ago I was considering doing this but was told by the owner of a bodyshop/ sprayer that he would not advise it as he considered that the chemicals used in the stripping process are not all removed and remain in any crevices and will cause future corrosion.
That is one persons opinion.
regards
Andy
That is one persons opinion.
regards
Andy
- batfish
- Third Gear
- Posts: 300
- Joined: 09 Oct 2003
I have had steel car parts painted by electrophoresis deposition for a long lasting restoration project (door insides, fenders bird beaks etc) : one difficulty was to get rid of all the previous paint or rust everywhere, which called for one careful sand blasting, one chemical stripping that had to be done on different location (contractors handling such chemicals and opened to small jobs were hard to find), then bring the parts quickly to the processing chain for an other quick light sand blasting in case surface rust had appeared within 12/24h prior to dipping... an other issue was the batch size, something like 2 by 4m : I could get all parts in 2 baskets, but could not get the frame done.
the outcome was very nice : a regular, homogeneous black film deposited everywhere inside out ... except where there was bubbles trapped when dipping (watch the parts orientation in the baskets). The product deposited in my case was similar to a primer, and not UV resistant : better to store the parts indoor if not top coated rapidly. One thing to consider, too, is curing temperature (set to 185-195?C in my case, the 300m chain usually treating Peugeot or Citroen batches would not be altered for my 2 baskets) - right about lead softening temperature...
the outcome was very nice : a regular, homogeneous black film deposited everywhere inside out ... except where there was bubbles trapped when dipping (watch the parts orientation in the baskets). The product deposited in my case was similar to a primer, and not UV resistant : better to store the parts indoor if not top coated rapidly. One thing to consider, too, is curing temperature (set to 185-195?C in my case, the 300m chain usually treating Peugeot or Citroen batches would not be altered for my 2 baskets) - right about lead softening temperature...
S4SE 36/8198
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2006
- Joined: 02 Sep 2013
I have a new chassis too awaiting a decision on what to do.
I called surface processing and spoke to 'Phil' who sounded like he wanted to go home.
The process sounds pretty good. The costs are significant. ?500 gets a stripped to bare metal chassis. The electro-coated primer dip costs ?1000. So ?1500 to the point where you can stick some paint on it.
In all honesty I think I'll stick to my Plan A which is the POR 15 route.
One thing he did have time to cast disparaging remarks at was powder coating. I asked him about 2K epoxy powder coating on a bare metal chassis and that got the same thumbs down.
All this new 'stuff' but perhaps I'm safer doing what I know
I called surface processing and spoke to 'Phil' who sounded like he wanted to go home.
The process sounds pretty good. The costs are significant. ?500 gets a stripped to bare metal chassis. The electro-coated primer dip costs ?1000. So ?1500 to the point where you can stick some paint on it.
In all honesty I think I'll stick to my Plan A which is the POR 15 route.
One thing he did have time to cast disparaging remarks at was powder coating. I asked him about 2K epoxy powder coating on a bare metal chassis and that got the same thumbs down.
All this new 'stuff' but perhaps I'm safer doing what I know
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
-
661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: 29 Mar 2012
Hi Graeme,
I maaged to get through to them this afternoon. I was quite surprised at the cost, as it is only a chassis, so I would be even more shocked if it was a complete body shell. For 1500 quid + what I paid for the chassis in the first place, it's almost worth selling my current good chassis ad buying a new one from Spyder for the same money.
I have a soda blaster, so I might blast the loose paint off and go the POR15 route like you.
any idea what the hot zinc spray will cost? Did not know they did that.
Kind regards
Jeff
I maaged to get through to them this afternoon. I was quite surprised at the cost, as it is only a chassis, so I would be even more shocked if it was a complete body shell. For 1500 quid + what I paid for the chassis in the first place, it's almost worth selling my current good chassis ad buying a new one from Spyder for the same money.
I have a soda blaster, so I might blast the loose paint off and go the POR15 route like you.
any idea what the hot zinc spray will cost? Did not know they did that.
Kind regards
Jeff
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jeff jackson - Third Gear
- Posts: 360
- Joined: 31 May 2004
jeff jackson wrote:Hi Graeme,
I maaged to get through to them this afternoon. I was quite surprised at the cost, as it is only a chassis, so I would be even more shocked if it was a complete body shell. For 1500 quid + what I paid for the chassis in the first place, it's almost worth selling my current good chassis ad buying a new one from Spyder for the same money.
I have a soda blaster, so I might blast the loose paint off and go the POR15 route like you.
any idea what the hot zinc spray will cost? Did not know they did that.
Kind regards
Jeff
I too have a soda blaster, one of those orange things. Its not industrial and will fill the neighbourhood with powder but that will probably be the way to go
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
-
661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: 29 Mar 2012
gus wrote:If you soda blast you need to acid wash afterwards or you are back in the same place with hidden alkaline powder in all the nooks and crannies.
I would stick with a milder standard blasting media then prime and paint.
Thanks Gus
POR 15 recommend their cleansing solution prior to metal prep then the paint. The two prep solutions require 'thoroughly washing off' . Jet spraying does seem counter intuitive on mild steel you've just de-rusted, however, it would certainly get rid of any soda left over.
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
-
661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: 29 Mar 2012
I have just restored my Elan and the existing chassis had signs of surface rust but that was all. My solution was to apply Trustan to any rust areas followed by 2 coats of satin black Hammerite. I then pumped a lot of Waxoyl into inaccessable areas such as the front turrets, etc. A lot cheaper than any dipping process and IMO it should stand up well to the elements.
- William2
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 921
- Joined: 20 Jan 2013
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