Older powder-coated chassis - ?waxoyl

[dunclentdr]

I have a 15 year old powder coated chassis which whilst in great condition has a few small areas where the steel is exposed and there is surface rust.

I am thinking about waxoyl treatment. Does anyone have thoughts or suggestions? I am based in the Midlands (UK) and appreciate ideas about potential suppliers of whatever treatment is recommended.

Thanks

David

[Elanconvert]

hello david
my experience of powder coating is mixed.......some excellent some rubbish....
I would be very wary of any powder coating that is deteriorating [or has it been damaged?] and coming away from the metal.......my guess is that it will [might] be about to do this in other areas......

fred

[englishmaninwales]

I agree with Fred about powder coating. I treated small areas of corrosion on my Caterham space-frame with POR15 system (strip off old PC, wire brush, Marine clean, wash, POR etch coat, wash and POR 15 paint) to good effect.

Malcolm

[cal44]

I'm out.

[kmoist]

Please share your POR15 tips

[mbell]

My vote would be por 15 too. Used it on the exposed parts of my +2 chassis.

Tips on use would be appreciated.

[englishmaninwales]

.....and wear gloves with POR as it's awfully difficult to remove

[cal44]

I'm out

[Chancer]

Let me guess, you store the tin upside down?

Never used POR15 but its what I do to prevent skin forming on my paints and them going off.

Another tip if you have ever had an aerosol made up to a specific paint colour with 2K paint (excellent for panel repairs), the hardener is added in the mix and it will be unusable within a week or so however this time can be extended to up to a couple of months if stored in the refrigerator.

[cal44]

I'm out

[bill308]

I think the important thing is to clean, stabilize, and seal the rust area.

Remove any loose rust mechanically. Stabilize the remaining rust with a rust converter that changes rust from an aggressive to a benign form, then seal it.

Note that some modern steels are alloyed to form a protective rust during weathering. These steels are now commonly used in electric transmission towers (See COR-TEN steel) and bridge construction. These steeks are not otherwise protected from corrosion. The rust forms a protective (passive) coating on the surface.

POR-15 performs two of the 3-steps. It converts the existing rust to a more benign form and seals it from new moisture.

Separate rust converters look like chocolate milk and change brown rust to a black ceramic like material. I usually use 1-3 coats of rust converter and leave it at that. I think this form penetrates better than a do-it-all converter paint, but rust converter should be top coated with a paint (epoxy) for best protection. Rust converter is also inexpensive and lasts a long time. A little goes a long way. It is commonly available in auto parts stores like NAPA, under their own name. The first time I used rust converter was on surface rust on my S2 chassis. I acquired a small amount of rust converter from a nuclear power industry supplier and just brushed it on and left it.

Bill

[bill308]

I think the important thing is to clean, stabilize, and seal the rust area.

Remove any loose rust mechanically. Stabilize the remaining rust with a rust converter that changes rust from an aggressive to a benign form, then seal it.

Note that some modern steels are alloyed to form a protective rust during weathering. These steels are now commonly used in electric transmission towers (See COR-TEN steel) and bridge construction. These steeks are not otherwise protected from corrosion. The rust forms a protective (passive) coating on the surface.

POR-15 performs two of the 3-steps. It converts the existing rust to a more benign form and seals it from new moisture.

Separate rust converters look like chocolate milk and change brown rust to a black ceramic like material. I usually use 1-3 coats of rust converter and leave it at that. I think this form penetrates better than a do-it-all converter paint, but rust converter should be top coated with a paint (epoxy) for best protection. Rust converter is also inexpensive and lasts a long time. A little goes a long way. It is commonly available in auto parts stores like NAPA, under their own name. The first time I used rust converter was on surface rust on my S2 chassis. I acquired a small amount of rust converter from a nuclear power industry supplier and just brushed it on and left it.

Bill

[bill308]

I think the important thing is to clean, stabilize, and seal the rust area.

Remove any loose rust mechanically. Stabilize the remaining rust with a rust converter that changes rust from an aggressive to a benign form, then seal it.

Note that some modern steels are alloyed to form a protective rust during weathering. These steels are now commonly used in electric transmission towers (See COR-TEN steel) and bridge construction. These steeks are not otherwise protected from corrosion. The rust forms a protective (passive) coating on the surface.

POR-15 performs two of the 3-steps. It converts the existing rust to a more benign form and seals it from new moisture.

Separate rust converters look like chocolate milk and change brown rust to a black ceramic like material. I usually use 1-3 coats of rust converter and leave it at that. I think this form penetrates better than a do-it-all converter paint, but rust converter should be top coated with a paint (epoxy) for best protection. Rust converter is also inexpensive and lasts a long time. A little goes a long way. It is commonly available in auto parts stores like NAPA, under their own name. The first time I used rust converter was on surface rust on my S2 chassis. I acquired a small amount of rust converter from a nuclear power industry supplier and just brushed it on and left it.

Bill

[john.p.clegg]

Bill

i'll fourth that...

John

[bill308]

Th..th...thanks John.

I promise in the new year to be more patient. In the meantime.....

Bill