Chassis ready for blasting. But??

[thorbs000]

Hi all
The strip down of my 1968 +2 chassis is now finished and ready for blasting.
I have been round it all measuring suspension measurements as in the manual & was pleasantly surprised to find everything to be within tolerances.
Having done a little bit of scraping at the chassis all I can find is bright shiny steel, which must be a good sign. On turning chassis over, on the front cross member, it looks as if someone ( not me ) as been using it as a jacking point and there are some dints in it.
My question is, is this acceptable or do I need to get it fixed. It doesn't look too bad ( photos posted )although I am a novice at this and it's my first restoration.

Thanks for any advice given

Ian

[AHM]

They look fairly minor.

If you can, take the opportunity to weld on a tow eye and jacking pad. If you do you will be pleased every time you use it. if you don't you won't!

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

They look fairly minor.

If you can, take the opportunity to weld on a tow eye and jacking pad. If you do you will be pleased every time you use it. if you don't you won't!

Don't worry too much about residual petrol exploding whilst welding

Sorry about that Ian, but I am sure that you are aware that this cross member can have petrol vapour in it.
I just pointed it out in case you didn't
Cheers
John

[collins_dan]

I would love it is my cross-member looked that good.
Dan

[rdssdi]

I replaced my chassis with a Spyder unit. So all was new.

I remember one elan.net member who I believe is no longer a member, restored a +2 but neglected to renew the suspension arm pivot points. One broke on a track day event and he crashed.

While I have only heard of that one instance it is a remote possibility. Metal does fatigue. If the threaded studs are replaceable it may be the prudent thing to do.

My memory is fading but I remember it was possible to replace them but not an easy task.

Some other people could add their experiences and offer advice.

Bob

[billwill]

I have a recollection of it being discussed on this forum last year.

The studs are bars that go right through the suspension turret.

I understand that they are also prone to bend a little at the welded joints

[gearbox]

I just completed what you are about to do, completely sandblasted the fame, coated it in POR15, and then painted. But I also decided to do the 26R modifications. I was amazed on how easily the frame could be tweaked and the added 8 pounds of metal stiffened it up considerably. But as for your cross member, part of the 26R mods I did was a 0.125" thick plate welded his was on the bottom of the vac tank. I don't think think it did anything for structural integrety, but rather to protect the tank from jacking and possible strikes from bottoming out. A simple mod if you don't go the full 26R route. But I have to say, outside of cutting out all the lightening holes, it only took a day to fabricate the reinforcements and welding them in. A well worth while mod as you have everything already disassembled. Good luck Allan

[jfornarola]

Ian,
I agree with what has been posted above. I added a plate to the bottom of mine as well.
Attached is a photo with the added plate and two tow hooks. I have many other photos as well posted at: http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/jforn ... %20updates

Let me know if you have any problems viewing the album.

John

[pharriso]

If you re-inforce the bottom of the cross-member with a non-continuous weld around the periphery is there a danger that a) the 2 flat areas of the mating cross member & plate can't be painted / treated & b) water will wick in & cause corrosion ?

[jfornarola]

Phil,

I think that's an important consideration. Depending on intended use and location, the builder may need to take some measures. Here in the dry Western U.S. I felt powder coating the sub-frame was enough. If I still lived in Western New York State, I would have done something as you suggest.

jf

[gearbox]

If you re-inforce the bottom of the cross-member with a non-continuous weld around the periphery is there a danger that a) the 2 flat areas of the mating cross member & plate can't be painted / treated & b) water will wick in & cause corrosion ?

This was one of those trade off issues that I had to contend with. A continuious weld would have compromised the weld, one crack and it tends to crack all around, ergo the stiching. I flowed as much POR15 I could between the plates after welding, dilluting it down and then using an air hose to flow it in until I saw it blowing out the other side. I'm sure I didn't get 100%. But after the top coat, I noticed that the POR15 did seal the gap. Plus the epoxy top coat of Gray should give it sufficient protection unless I use it for underwater applications lol. Plus didn't the Ford engineers prove in court that a light coating of rust acted as a rust deterent? But anyway, with all the cars I have, I doubt this one will ever see rain.

[gearbox]

Ian,
I agree with what has been posted above. I added a plate to the bottom of mine as well.
Attached is a photo with the added plate and two tow hooks. I have many other photos as well posted at: http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/jforn ... %20updates

Let me know if you have any problems viewing the album.

John

Hey John, nice job on the frame, great feeling of accomplishment after it is all done, no? I went for the Buck Rodgers look and put lightening holes in most of the plates, and between cutting the holes and then painting it was a real PITA, but I did save 3 pounds lol. But I was interested in the cross brace you made for the two front shock towers. Did you have that on the car prior to disassembly? Reason I ask is that I tried figuring this out after everything was disassembled and I couldn't get comfortable with positioning the bar without fear of fouling the engine or radiator. Let me know how you did this, thanks Allan PS sorry for the high jack.