Chassis replacement, is it necessary.
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I am currently looking at three Lotus Elan DHC's with a view to buying one of them.
They are a S3, S4 and Sprint. All three are in very good condition and similarly priced at around ?24,000. The S3 is the prettiest car, but it is still on its original chassis.
As adverts for these cars generall seem to always stipulate that they have been fitted with a new galvanised chassis, I was wondering whether this was
1/ A drawback?
2/ Possibly dangerous and something which I would have to have done at some point or another?
3/ Likely to affect its future value?
4/ An arguement in favour of the car's complete originality?
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
Philip
They are a S3, S4 and Sprint. All three are in very good condition and similarly priced at around ?24,000. The S3 is the prettiest car, but it is still on its original chassis.
As adverts for these cars generall seem to always stipulate that they have been fitted with a new galvanised chassis, I was wondering whether this was
1/ A drawback?
2/ Possibly dangerous and something which I would have to have done at some point or another?
3/ Likely to affect its future value?
4/ An arguement in favour of the car's complete originality?
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
Philip
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Morangles - First Gear
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 15 Jun 2012
This discussion may be of interest to you elan-archive-f16/who-still-using-the-original-chassis-their-elan-t10363.html
I personally do not see a problem with a car having its original chassis providing it in good condition. Others will disagree but my own Sprint is still on its original chassis having it spent the majority of its life in the hot dry South African environment.
I personally do not see a problem with a car having its original chassis providing it in good condition. Others will disagree but my own Sprint is still on its original chassis having it spent the majority of its life in the hot dry South African environment.
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Phillip, the linked discussion covers it pretty well. I was a bit surprised with the number of original chassis', which is kind of cool.
The key point is it is pretty difficult to inspect the chassis condition with the body in place, and some experience with the cars is helpful to know where to look. I purchased my car with the original chassis, drove in half way across Canada, and then found out it would not pass local inspection due to rust. I ended up replacing it with a new Spyder unit.
Some of the following you may be familiar with...
Once the body as separated I could see the extend of damage. Right rear tower was distorted from some sort of impact. The rust along the centre tunnel bottom fold (where the body attach's) was visible and pretty severe with some poor repairs. This fold is structural and I would say if any of this is corroded away the chassis is junk; I should have known better. The front towers tend to accumulate leaves and crap on the inside and corrode from the inside; any thin spots and it is probably junk. Mine had small holes at the base of the towers; should have known better. Gary also mentioned the front square profile cross member; this acts as the vacuum tank to raise and lower the headlamps. If the lights don't work correctly or there are external repairs to this component it could be caused by internal corrosion. My lights were 'made to work' by adding a Jag vacuum tank to replace the cross member. As Gary says, if this piece is gone the chassis is junk.
I personally would be happier with an average car with a replaced chassis, or I would be budgeting for one in the future. If the car is in exceptional condition and on the original chassis, OK. Bill's car (keep your stick on the ice in the linked thread) is a good example. I have seen his car, and would have no hesitation in purchasing it. Not only is Bill the original owner, I also bet he has some photo's around from when he had the body off that demonstrate the chassis integrity he found. Perhaps the car you like has similar documentation and provenance? I personally would be very suspect of someone claiming the chassis is good if they have not personally removed the body, refurbished it, and are excited to tell you every detail of the undertaking or have a giant binder full of bills (or both). I might miss out on a 'great one' with this approach, but such is life.
In terms of value, I don't think a chassis replacement holds back the value of the car, but I tend to be more OK with modifications than some. As with any classic, there is a premium for originality. Given that original spec chassis' have been used for some concours resto's, these to my mind remain 'original' cars. Cars like mine with Spyder chassis and other mods are a different market. Then again, I am not afraid to drive mine. So at the end of the day, the 'value piece' of your questions come down to what you want, a driver or garage queen.
Just my thoughts. Good luck in your search and welcome aboard. They are great little cars and loads of fun.
HTH
The key point is it is pretty difficult to inspect the chassis condition with the body in place, and some experience with the cars is helpful to know where to look. I purchased my car with the original chassis, drove in half way across Canada, and then found out it would not pass local inspection due to rust. I ended up replacing it with a new Spyder unit.
Some of the following you may be familiar with...
Once the body as separated I could see the extend of damage. Right rear tower was distorted from some sort of impact. The rust along the centre tunnel bottom fold (where the body attach's) was visible and pretty severe with some poor repairs. This fold is structural and I would say if any of this is corroded away the chassis is junk; I should have known better. The front towers tend to accumulate leaves and crap on the inside and corrode from the inside; any thin spots and it is probably junk. Mine had small holes at the base of the towers; should have known better. Gary also mentioned the front square profile cross member; this acts as the vacuum tank to raise and lower the headlamps. If the lights don't work correctly or there are external repairs to this component it could be caused by internal corrosion. My lights were 'made to work' by adding a Jag vacuum tank to replace the cross member. As Gary says, if this piece is gone the chassis is junk.
I personally would be happier with an average car with a replaced chassis, or I would be budgeting for one in the future. If the car is in exceptional condition and on the original chassis, OK. Bill's car (keep your stick on the ice in the linked thread) is a good example. I have seen his car, and would have no hesitation in purchasing it. Not only is Bill the original owner, I also bet he has some photo's around from when he had the body off that demonstrate the chassis integrity he found. Perhaps the car you like has similar documentation and provenance? I personally would be very suspect of someone claiming the chassis is good if they have not personally removed the body, refurbished it, and are excited to tell you every detail of the undertaking or have a giant binder full of bills (or both). I might miss out on a 'great one' with this approach, but such is life.
In terms of value, I don't think a chassis replacement holds back the value of the car, but I tend to be more OK with modifications than some. As with any classic, there is a premium for originality. Given that original spec chassis' have been used for some concours resto's, these to my mind remain 'original' cars. Cars like mine with Spyder chassis and other mods are a different market. Then again, I am not afraid to drive mine. So at the end of the day, the 'value piece' of your questions come down to what you want, a driver or garage queen.
Just my thoughts. Good luck in your search and welcome aboard. They are great little cars and loads of fun.
HTH
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1963
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
You may want to search the archives as the condition of the chassis is obviously an important variable, there are a number of other economic considerations. Paint and body is probably your greatest opportunity to spend money. Engine is another. Rebuilds are expensive. Personally, I also think have solid driveshafts are important and a somewhat expensive upgrade. In the end, pick what you like that best fits how you intend to use the car. Good Luck, Dan
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collins_dan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Thank you both Dan and HTH for your replies. I admit that having read your comments I feel inclined to purchase a car with a replacement chassis, especially as the vendor of the S3 original chassis car said it would be alright "so long as you don't go track racing in it!" And I'm pretty he hasn't inspected the car with the body off.
Of course I will keep you posted as after all, I have been dreaming about owning one of these cars since I was a little boy, so I think it's time to finally get on with it!
Of course I will keep you posted as after all, I have been dreaming about owning one of these cars since I was a little boy, so I think it's time to finally get on with it!
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Morangles - First Gear
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 15 Jun 2012
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