Question? FHC - Window frame to body clearance
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I?m in the process of rebuilding both the doors on my S4 FHC. Anyone who has done this knows how fiddly it can be. The RHS is done and the result is not to bad. Now I?m onto the left and it?s a pain in the?. ! Nothing seems to fit well at all so I?m having to do much adjusting, fiddling, fettling, trimming etc? to make it all work. The biggest problem is that there is not enough clearance between the A pillar and the window frame at the front apex. It?s as if my coupe has been affected like a DHC ? i.e. the pillar leaning rearwards. My question is ? has anyone ever come across this on a FHC before?
Before everyone asks ? there is NO crash damage and/or repair anywhere in the car. I?ve had all the trim out and had a good look around. The car is a good original car with good history. Under the paint the light blue gel coat seems all intact (sanded down under the drip mould) . The windscreen fits well all round and looks the same both sides on the pillar. The window frame runs parallel with the B pillar with a constant gap of around 12.0mm. The drip rail mould fits quite well also. My next move is to make a template of the RHS frame and check it against the LHS to make sure the frame is the correct shape. The frame does not fit the door well where the latch attaches. I have carefully panel beaten the drip mould in the corner to create a little more clearance. Apart from that I can?t see that there is to much I can do. I?ll be happy if the door closes without contact to the drip moulding. I don?t want to get into major bodywork as the paint is good and this was meant to be a sympathetic restoration not a complete rebuild etc?
So again ? has anyone seen issue or similar on a FHC?
Before everyone asks ? there is NO crash damage and/or repair anywhere in the car. I?ve had all the trim out and had a good look around. The car is a good original car with good history. Under the paint the light blue gel coat seems all intact (sanded down under the drip mould) . The windscreen fits well all round and looks the same both sides on the pillar. The window frame runs parallel with the B pillar with a constant gap of around 12.0mm. The drip rail mould fits quite well also. My next move is to make a template of the RHS frame and check it against the LHS to make sure the frame is the correct shape. The frame does not fit the door well where the latch attaches. I have carefully panel beaten the drip mould in the corner to create a little more clearance. Apart from that I can?t see that there is to much I can do. I?ll be happy if the door closes without contact to the drip moulding. I don?t want to get into major bodywork as the paint is good and this was meant to be a sympathetic restoration not a complete rebuild etc?
So again ? has anyone seen issue or similar on a FHC?
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europatek - Second Gear
- Posts: 130
- Joined: 26 Mar 2008
My S4 (Soft Top) had pieces of packing material (Hardboard) glued in place under the inner Chromed lip that sits on the slot in the Door.
They were placed at the front of the Frame in order to tilt it back & away from the Screen.
Maybe that's what you need to do or maybe they were already there when you stripped the Doors & may have fallen inside the Door?
Cheers
John
They were placed at the front of the Frame in order to tilt it back & away from the Screen.
Maybe that's what you need to do or maybe they were already there when you stripped the Doors & may have fallen inside the Door?
Cheers
John
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Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
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GrUmPyBoDgEr - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Here are a couple of photos, I took them when it was nearly dark so it's got the flash in use. I think that is shows the gaps quite nicely but its only the front. A photo of you problem may help folks see what you are talking about and be able to better offer an answer. I am not sure about your Elan but fiberglass moves (heat, cold, etc) over time, a 90 degree angle will close to less than 90 if left long enough unsupported. that probably not be you problem, I don't know as it would take seeing the coupe and thats not likely.
This door looks like it is to far down but the gap in the crotch makes it so it can't come up much without altering the body. Its possible to move it a bit and may help some but its likely to be off somewhere else.
Rain gutters have yet to be installed so it shows the true gap.
This door looks like it is to far down but the gap in the crotch makes it so it can't come up much without altering the body. Its possible to move it a bit and may help some but its likely to be off somewhere else.
Rain gutters have yet to be installed so it shows the true gap.
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Well after much messing about with the position of the door on the hinges and its position in the body opening I have been able to achieve an acceptable clearance to the gutter mould of around 3.0mm which means door closing with no contact. It's not as good as the RHS but it's much better than is was. As mentioned in my first post there is no evidence anywhere of damage and or repair so I assume that manufacturing tolerances have conspired to create a tight spot at the apex.
The LHS door seems way more warped than the RHS and this is obvious by the heal of the door standing proud of the body some 10.0mm. Putting a straight edge across the lower horizontal door seal face shows the problem well with around 4-5mm dip in the middle. Therefore I've decided on door surgery to improve the fit and finish and a build up of material across the seal face.
The RHS door heal is only 2 maybe 3 mm proud of the body and that is caused, I believe, by the weight of the door components twisting the door shell not door warp. The door fitted and aligned really well until the weight was added.
It is my opinion bad door fitting/alignment etc? is caused by two problems;
- Door warp.
- Door stiffness or lack there of.
I?ll post some pictures of progress and results soon.
The Elan is such a great looking car that I think it deserves well fitting doors. Looking at the bad fit would bug me no end as well.
The LHS door seems way more warped than the RHS and this is obvious by the heal of the door standing proud of the body some 10.0mm. Putting a straight edge across the lower horizontal door seal face shows the problem well with around 4-5mm dip in the middle. Therefore I've decided on door surgery to improve the fit and finish and a build up of material across the seal face.
The RHS door heal is only 2 maybe 3 mm proud of the body and that is caused, I believe, by the weight of the door components twisting the door shell not door warp. The door fitted and aligned really well until the weight was added.
It is my opinion bad door fitting/alignment etc? is caused by two problems;
- Door warp.
- Door stiffness or lack there of.
I?ll post some pictures of progress and results soon.
The Elan is such a great looking car that I think it deserves well fitting doors. Looking at the bad fit would bug me no end as well.
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europatek - Second Gear
- Posts: 130
- Joined: 26 Mar 2008
Sorry the photos were not of any help to you. Lots of words to describe the problem and I guess I missed out on what it was. If you post photos, please show what it is that was distressing you so that when you show the finished pictures we can appreciate the work you are going to do. Also take photos along the way so that others may learn what it is you are about to do to rectify the problems that you have.
Gary
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Firstly, thanks to everyone who responded with comments and photos. Much appreciated. I've attached some photos of the issue at hand. The first shows the frame to body apex issue followed by where I fiunally ended up. As you can see in the photos the gap between the frame, body and a pillar closes up around the front upper apex, making door adjustment, fit and finish very tricky. At least now the door closes well with clearance all round the frame. I can only assume manufacturing tolerances have conspired against me on this one. Also included some photos showing the RHS and the windscreen fit to the body, which to me looks just right. Anyway, it is what it as and I'll make the best job of it I can.
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europatek - Second Gear
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