Chassis Restoration

[specky]

I've just popped over from the dark side... (Lotus Elan Central because I'm M100 man)

Now before you slap me with the nearest trout and send me away with a flea in my ear, I have a question regarding Chassis restoration as you're the experts.

Long story short... I'm undertaking a full restoration on a 1989 preproduction M100 durability test mule.

I have a slighty rusty backbone chassis that's in need of a full paint strip and repaint... Galvanizing is an option, but I conserned about warping.

I'm after a bit of advice please...

Things like...

which company you would recomend for a chemical strip...

Which company you would use to repainint the chassis, as a point of note there are some box sections that are inaccessable to a spray gun.

I have found this place on the internet http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/index.html ,but I'm none the wiser

Finally I'm Swindon based.

TTFN

[Elanintheforest]

Probably the most complete way would be to acid dip the chassis, then get it e-coated and painted. Both processes get into all the nooks and crannies that others don't. Should outlast the Isuzu then!! Well, the bodyshell maybe.

Have a look at these guys:

http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk

Mark

[specky]

Probably the most complete way would be to acid dip the chassis, then get it e-coated and painted. Both processes get into all the nooks and crannies that others don't. Should outlast the Isuzu then!! Well, the bodyshell maybe.

Have a look at these guys:

http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk

Mark

After a brief search on the internet I came across them, Have you used them?

I had a brief chat with them ?300 and odd for a full strip and a further ?800 for the E-coat...

I'd then have to find somewhere that could dip for the final Paint... I've no ideas on this one either


Would there be any where else?

TTFN

[gerrym]

I spoke to SPL re dip and etch prime for a Plus 2 Spyder chassis. The two things that put me off were that each and every "tube" would need large drainage holes drilled in it, and the price of about ?1500. Of course with a Lotus stressed skin sheetmetal chassis the first problem wouldn't really apply.

Have you thought about sand blast prep (say SA2-1/2) followed by Zinga cold galv?

Regards
Gerry

[bcmc33]

Mark's suggestion is undoubtably the best option - but expensive.

I would consider shot blasting followed by a couple of coats of POR-15.

[specky]

Many thanks for all the replies,

each and every "tube" would need large drainage holes drilled in it

On that front I think I'd be OK, those chaps at Hethel have drilled drainage holes everywhere, they must have dipped the chassis to start with.

Have you thought about sand blast prep (say SA2-1/2) followed by Zinga cold galv?

Yes and no....

It comes down to the inaccessesible box sections, the external surfaces would be no worries.

Mark's suggestion is undoubtably the best option - but expensive.

I would consider shot blasting followed by a couple of coats of POR-15.

I know a couple of lads that have used POR-15 with positive results and the LEF guys swear by it. I wonder if anywhere dips with POR-15



TTFN

[specky]

Here's a pic or two...

Infact two chassiss back to back,



TTFN

[jono]

I took my Spyder chassis to a local firm who specialise in blasting and coating structural steelwork.

They shotblasted using steel shot, 3 coats of zinc ritch primer and 2 coats of 2 pack on top. The chassis now looks brand new, only problem is I asked for grey and it came back a perfectly matched Spyder orange

They accepted their mistake with good grace but best bit was the price - ?80

They did a stunning job too and also blasted my chromed wheels back to bare metal for the princely sum of ?7.50 each

[PhilJohn]

I'm in the process of restoring an Elan Sprint. The chassis was originally galvanised, but over the years the surface has broken down allowing light corrosion to certain areas. After talking to people much more knowledgable than me, I decided not to re galv, but shot blast the affected areas and apply a specialist paint system. I was going to use POR 15, but came across something from the USA called 'Rust Bullet' at the classic car show. I was interested in it, as the company selling it, based in Devon, originally started importing it to paint fishing trawler hulls. I think it's probably similar to POR 15. They showed some examples which looked pretty impressive, so we thought we'd give it a go. We should be spraying it in a couple of weeks, so can let you know how it goes.
Good luck with the M100 resto; they're fabulous cars and totally under rated by everyone that's never driven one. Phil

[Quart Meg Miles]

So how did it go? Anyone still there?