LR chassis

[robcall]

I need a new chassis for my 1970 dhc.
I'd prefer to keep the car original and would like an update on the condition of Lotus replacement chassis and the best place to purchase.
I have to import the chassis into Australia-therefore having to return an out of alignment chassis will be difficult
Are current galvanised chassis accurate?
Is a non galvanised chassis available(rust not a real problem over here)
A dealer experienced in shipping overseas would be helpful

[512BB]

Good morning Nigel

As i understand it, all LR chassis, no matter who you purchase from dealer wise, come through Miles Wilkins, at Fibreglass Services, in Sussex. He has the sole rights to produce LR chassis, and then wholesales them to all the other dealers, even though you can purchase them direct from him.

Now the KNOTTY question you ask, are they straight? Who knows!!!!!! If you speak to Buckland, he say no! But as i understand it, he MAY have an axe to grind, i dont know. There is talk of a SMALL dispute between the two of them.

For my part, I have bought several new LR chassis over the years for my cars, both galv and non, and recently took them up to Spyder to have them checked for straightness, before use. All were within tolerance. However, i have not bought one of the modern day galv chassis from Messrs Wilkins, so cannot speak for them. What i did buy recently, was one of his chassis un galvd, to cut out any possible probs, and then had it pure zinc powder coated, and then polyester powder top coat. Its a work of art, and a shame to use it!

I will look forward to other peeps postings to see what experiences they have had.

And thanks Nigel for the steer on the seatbelts. They are indeed very good.

All the best,

Leslie

[Elanintheforest]

I agree with Leslie on all counts. Miles will sell you an un-galvanised chassis, which you can then get powder coated in Oz...got to be the way to go. You can then get it powder coated to the original colour....red oxide or black.

Miles does check all the chassis, and I haven't heard of one being out of tolerance for a long time...maybe 20 years. I know the Elan Factory in Melbourne are very much against the galvanised chassis, and claim that they are all rubbish....I think he's reflecting on 20 years ago, and maybe wanting to promote his chassis? Don't know whetjher or not he's got that up and running yet.

It maybe worth putting something up on here about sharing a small container to spread the cost of shipping. I'm sure you're not the only Elan owner in Oz who needs a chassis or other bulky items...good to have as a spare as well. Otherwise, make sure the chassis is crated before shipping.

Mark

[elansprint]

I was at Mick Millar's picking up my cylinder head just before Mick passed away & he showed me some chassis that had just arrived from Miles several of the threads that had bolts put in before galvanising had been left in broken off after galvanising. Mick was having to drill & tap them before he would sell them obviously Miles does not seem to care. Drop an email to Sue Millar see if the situation has improved this was 7 years ago.
Ian

[robcall]

thanks for all your replies.
I'll make some enquires on Monday.
I've found Sue Miller to be honest and concerned regarding quality issues.

[prloz]

Hi Nigel,
Any news on the chassis situation ?
I also need a chassis in Oz.
Thanks.
Regards,
Peter.

[robcall]

Hi Peter-you have PM

[muir]

Hi Nigel

I ordered a Lotus replacement chassis in gal via The Elan Factory some years ago.
Although I am happy with what I received, from what I have seen there is no comparison to the quality of the The Elan Factory's own version. I am not sure if they are in production as of yet, but if they are get one.

For my own chassis I did the following:
-the incorporation of a little drain plug in the bottom of the box section to drain any condensation that may accumilate.
-sprayed the box section internals with fish oil to help eliminate corrosion.
-painted the chassis a light colour (yellow) to make any cracks easily visible.
-used PE foam instead of that carpet underlay stuff which holds moisture over the transmission tunnel.

Re powdercoating a chassis...I personally have had a few bad experiences with powdercoat whereby rust has managed to go between the powdercoat and metal and I would be concerned that if this happened it could go unnoticed on a chassis.

cheers
Muir

[batfish]

Hi Nigel

Following on from Muir's comment from experience I would advise against powder coating a chassis. I had one powdercoated a few years ago and within one year it was pealing off. One small scratch and water goes under the coating and lifts it off.

Regards

Andy

[msd1107]

What about using POR15 (http://www.por15.com) instead of powder coating?

David
1968 36/7988

[512BB]

Gentlemen,

If you had something powdercoated and it was peeling off within a year, you either went to crap powder coaters, or you didnt pay enough to have a proper job done. As i said in my earlier reply, anything that you want to last, HAS to be shot blasted first, even if the item is new, then pure zinc powder coated, and then polyester powder coated.

I went into the various coatings you could have done on a chassis in great detail with the company that i used. They have contracts with the French railways and give a 7 year guarantee on their work. Beat that!

There are thousands of powder coaters out there, but how many do it right.

Leslie

[kstrutt11]

I have had similar problems with powder coating but regardless of this I would not powder coat a chassis, it is too thick and hides cracks too well, a thin coating of a zinc rich paint (in silver) is probably the best option if not buying galvanized.

[CBUEB1771]

Are current galvanised chassis accurate?

I recently purchased a Lotus replacement galvanized chassis for my +2. The chassis was sourced through Miles Wilkins. I have measured the chassis carefully and the important dimensions related to suspension pickup points and engine, gearbox and differential mounted are all within the tolerances shown in the workshop manual. However there are problems. The lower flange on the exhaust side is bent up at an angle such that the +2s removable front cross member won't fit up. The flat, vertical sections show some "oil canning". I'll have to do some tin knocking to rectify these. When the chassis came out of the vat nobody took the trouble to whisk off the extra coating. I've got about 20 pounds of zink "blobs" and "danglers" that will need to be removed. Of course the threads in all of the weld nuts had to be chased and through holes drilled to size. In retrospect I wish I had gone with an unfinished chassis.

[bengalcharlie]

here is my experience. Powdercoating and POR 15 paints are rock hard and give a beautifull result. Great if you are attending concours or show off your car at the local car fair. Not great if you want a long lasting chassis. Because the paint is hard it is brittle and easily chips/cracks and you will experience what you have mentioned already, moisture getting under the paint with fatal results.
I do use Rustoleum. This paint has been around for decades and is easy to apply, you can either brush it on or spray it and it penetrtes so well into the pores of the metal that you can not remove it afterwards with any powertool. I once had to remove a studd form an inner guard on my alfa and that car was painted with rustoleum followed by a POR15 topcoat. After heating the studd with a torch for a few seconds the POR15 started to bublle, the rustoleum did not change whatsoever!!
Rustoleum can be topcoated with any paint and the result will last longer than your lifetime!!
cheers
Robin

[512BB]

Some of you are not listening! If you do right, it does not matter if you get a stone chip in your powder coating, because you have the pure zinc coating underneath it. Therefore no water can creep under your polyester powder coated top coat.

Leslie