Chassis Change (marking out hole centres for drilling)

[gerrym]

Hi, tip for making the chassis change easier.

When it comes time to mark-out the hole centres for drilling, expecially chassis holes that are to be threaded, an off the shelf tool that can be used is known as a transfer punch. Picture below, obvious when you know!

(Warco.co.uk have them as an imperial set for around a tenner)

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

That's a good tip, not bad for a tenner.
Warco stuff is good; I bought my lathe from them.
I used something practically identical but made them myself to suit the thread minor diameter of the bobbins etc.
Material was carbon steel turned to a point on one ende then hardened.
An old drill would probably also do the job.

John

[gerrym]

John, I too mucked around making them myself, but probably not as accurate, nor as hard as a bought set (must buy anyhow for lot's of other applications)

Which lathe model?

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

John, I too mucked around making them myself, but probably not as accurate, nor as hard as a bought set (must buy anyhow for lot's of other applications)

Which lathe model?

A BV-20 & I'm still collecting goodies to use with it.
They cost more than the Lathe
Generally speaking a nice piece of kit for the price.
If I had more space & money I'd have bought a bigger one with more features.
Nevertheless I'm contented.

Cheers
John

[rdssdi]

Please be aware that the body must be checked for alignment prior to marking and certainly before drilling and tapping.

MAke certain the obvious positioning is correct. Such as wheel well etc. Most important is the body height. The front must be high enough to allow the bonnet (hood) to clear the front of the valve cover. I suggest around 1/4" bonnet - cover clearance to allow for torque effect. I saw a person hurriedly mark and drill a new Spyder chassis only to find out much later the bonnet (hood) fouled the valve cover.

It was fortunate I read of this before I fit my chassis. This caution was included in the Spyder install sheet but I did not remember. Again, I benefited from someone else's error. MY front took a considerable amount of shimming to offer proper clearance. NO doubt each case will vary.

Bob

[gerrym]

Bob, echo your warnings. My body was up and down on the chassis three times before I drilled out the tapped holes. (I don't think the plain holes for screws into the chassis bobbins are so critical).

I found plasticene ideal for measuring the clearance. It's a bit like measuring bearing clearance except on a macro scale.

Regards

Gerry

[rdssdi]

I apologize for no Lotus content but have been unable to source this part.

If anyone goes to an auto parts store in the UK, I would appreciate if they would ask if this part is available and /or where it was originally used.

Its a brake and clutch pedal rubber measuring 5 1/2" x 1 1/2". On the back side it says "DARE Made in England P S 51"

Picture attached.

Bob

[rdssdi]

I apologize for no Lotus content but have been unable to source this part.

If anyone goes to an auto parts store in the UK, I would appreciate if they would ask if this part is available and /or where it was originally used.

Its a brake and clutch pedal rubber measuring 5 1/2" x 1 1/2". On the back side it says "DARE Made in England P S 51"

Picture attached.

Bob