Chassis plate

[davidj]

Hi,

I have recently purchased a new chassis plate (the one riveted into the front inner wing in the engine bay located close to the brake servo/rad ). Unlike my original, it has a "Alt Unit No" field. Any idea what should be entered in there?

Should the engine number be punched or scribed, and any suggestions how should I stop the paint chipping off the plate when I mark it up?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

David

[mikealdren]

David,
From earlier posts, I seem to remember that whether it should be scribed or punched depends on the age of the car - I'd copy the original.
My 1972 car has the chassis no. punched and the engine no. scribed (perhaps it's not the original plate but I think it is).
The Alt unit no says "TYPE 50" and it's punched. Less the quotes of course and there is quite a space between TYPE and 50, about 2 characters worth

regards
Mike

[Elanintheforest]

Mine sounds much the same. Remember the colour code as well, in the bottom right hand corner.

Mark

[davidj]

Hi,

Thanks for your replies. I wonder if the reason the plates are both stamped and scribed is to do with the assembly process. The plate could be stamped and fitted when the chassis/body are assembled. When this is later painted and the engine fitted, the plate is scribed with the correct info in situ.

David

[Jason1]

Hi

This previous thread may be of interest?

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2162

Jason

[JJDraper]

You may be interested in this site -

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

They have addressed the radial light output and have a cure for potential problems with flasher units not being triggered by the low power of LED indicators.

I have had LEDs for my +2's rear/brake lights for around 4 years now, with no adverse reactions...

Jeremy

[john.p.clegg]

Jeremy

Thanks for the info,just what I needed,but how come you posted it under chassis plate....senior moment?

John

[denicholls2]

You may be interested in this site -

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

They have addressed the radial light output and have a cure for potential problems with flasher units not being triggered by the low power of LED indicators.

I have had LEDs for my +2's rear/brake lights for around 4 years now, with no adverse reactions...

Jeremy

I found that I could replace either front or rear lamps on my Europa, but replacing both brought it below threshold and it would not blink. Blinking was slowed considerably with just one LED.

Caveat emptor: Not from this source, but I did buy a solid state flasher that was not supposed to be current-sensitive -- it was as current sensitive as the original. At least I only spent about 1/4 what these folks are asking for it.