chassis check

PostPost by: GreekS1 » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:28 am

Hi all,

Im looking at a +2 that hasn't had a chassis change. Since I have to travel quite far to see it, I had the owner send me photos of the underside so I can decide to make the trip or not.

He says there is no rust. My question is: what am I looking for in the photos exept the odvious rust?

Also, is there possibility that I could send the photos (or PM them) to someone for your input?

Thanks

Vassilis
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PostPost by: MintSprint » Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:03 pm

The most obvious check to make can't be done by photographs - you need to have a good poke at the base of the front suspension turrets with a screwdriver.

The tops of these turrets are open, so they fill with dirt thrown up by the wheels over the years and will eventually end up literally packed solid with damp soil. There's a small 'half moon' shaped drain hole at the base, but this usually gets clogged and they rust from the inside out. External condition can often look fine, until you attack them with a screwdriver...

Another potential problem - albeit not so common as you might expect - is that the main spine of the chassis can rot out from the top. The bodyshell sits on a 'saddle' of resilient mat on top of the transmission tunnel and if this has absorbed water, it will rot out the chassis in an area that can't be inspected.

The other technique you need to use to assess a chassis is tapping it with a steel tool to assess how it 'rings'.

You also need to be inspecting in fine detail for stress cracks around suspension mounts, diff. mounts/tie rods and at the fork of the chassis in the engine bay, none of which are easy to spot from photographs.

Unfortunately, you need to be able to examine the chassis in detail, first hand, to be able to make any real judgement on condition.

Whereabouts is the car located? If it's in Greece, of course, you probably don't need to worry nearly as much about rust as you would in England! But in any case, perhaps there's someone on the list close by, who could take a preliminary look at it for you?
Last edited by MintSprint on Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: GreekS1 » Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:39 pm

Thanks for the detailed reply!
As you suggest I think I must have to take a closer look at it...

Do you have any idea for the ballpark figure for a chassis change in one of the Uk's classic Lotus experts (ie Matty, fiberglass etc)?

Thanks
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PostPost by: Elanintheforest » Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:59 pm

Ballpark is something like ?4000 - ?5000. The chassis is about ?1600, and the lotocones, diffmounts and brakepipes are replaced as a minimum. However, whilst the car is apart, it's not a bad idea to do the front and rear shocks and springs, overhaul the rack, powdercoat the wishbones, new wishbone bushes, diff oil seals and a few other bits and pieces. It doesn't add much to the labour cost, as all have to come apart and go back on anyway, just parts and materials.

It's also a good idea to have a look at the clutch, gearbox oil seals, engine mountings at the same time.

It is a very straghtforward job to do...if you can do a Mini subframe you can do a Lotus Chassis. I'm sure that there would be a garage in Athens that would do it, or of course, you could have a go yourself.

Mark
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PostPost by: ppnelan » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:17 pm

MintSprint wrote:The most obvious check to make can't be done by photographs - you need to have a good poke at the base of the front suspension turrets with a screwdriver.

A magnet can be useful too. :idea:

:arrow: Matthew
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PostPost by: tcsoar » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:55 am

Hi,

Just as a thought, while checking the chassis dont forget to look at the sill members. These run between the two wheel arches on either side and are prone to rust. Ask the owner if they been replaced, if not best to assume that they will need to be done. They are important, they double up as side impact protection :? and seat belt mounts. There is alot of info on here regarding these.

Chris.
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