Sprucing up the frame

[RotoFlexible]

I didn't really mean to take the body off the frame but everything else was apart and the upper front arms were trapped by the body. So far the frame has been cleaned and stripped. It's at a welder's shop for reinforcement, then I'll paint it. The frame was a replacement in about 1974 and has stood up very well. There is one small crack in an engine mount bracket and a slight twist in the left front tower, the result of a collision.

[handi_andi]

Looks like time for a good powder coat job....or have you got a reason for painting it instead?

Andy

[RotoFlexible]

This shows some of the reinforcements. The modifications were mostly inspired by the photos and descriptions on this site.

[RotoFlexible]

Looks like time for a good powder coat job....or have you got a reason for painting it instead?

Andy

The chief reason is cost - less than $100 for materials and disposable brushes vs. more than $1000 for powder coating. Also, with paint I can be sure of getting into all the corners and inside the spine, and it can be touched up if I chip it. Finally, I was tired of lugging it from place to place! I used KBS RustSeal, which is like POR-15 except that it comes in red oxide for a somewhat original look.

[cabc26b]

Have you tried to re-install your lotocones yet ? you might be in for a treat. I had to grind the flang , slot clut and use stainless AN cap screws to get it to work on the strteet car. The race car has the solid mounts and they were easier.

[handi_andi]

Might be a stupid question but are you sure Rustseal is a proper seal. I used something similar once and found that yes it stablised the rust but was in fact porous and without a suitable top coat of something else was not really worth the bother of using as the rust came back fairly quickly.
Andy

[RotoFlexible]

Have you tried to re-install your lotocones yet ? you might be in for a treat. I had to grind the flang , slot clut and use stainless AN cap screws to get it to work on the strteet car. The race car has the solid mounts and they were easier.

It appears I will have to do the same .

Might be a stupid question but are you sure Rustseal is a proper seal. I used something similar once and found that yes it stablised the rust but was in fact porous and without a suitable top coat of something else was not really worth the bother of using as the rust came back fairly quickly.

Not a stupid question at all. If the manufacturer's extravagant claims are even half true, the RustSeal should be fine for my purposes, which don't include a lot of use in bad weather. The stuff certainly doesn't look porous - it has a hard, glossy finish. It is UV sensitive but that's not an issue for the frame. We'll see how it holds up.

[RotoFlexible]

I finally re-installed the frame. Rather than taking the four-guys-two-sixpacks approach, I used the technique advocated by Brian Buckland of jacking the frame up into the body. I don't have the means of supporting the body as high as it needs to be, so I lifted it with a come-along and a sling, rolled the body underneath on two trolly jacks, lowered the body onto crates, and raised the frame to meet it.

One benefit of this approach is that it is a one-man job; the other is that I was able to take it nice and slow. There are vertical studs on the rear towers that have to engage with the roll bar - being able to precisely control the height and position of the frame made this fairly painless.

[jeff jackson]

Have you got your diff in yet? Before bolting the body on?
Much, Much easier job to do, along with rear suspension etc... with the body off. ( Also, hopefully not teaching you to suck eggs either).
Regards
Jeff 72+2

[oldokie]

I put everything on the frame first on a Plus 2; on Elans, you have to leave the carbs and exhaust for later.

[garyeanderson]

I guess if you have the room to completely build up the chassis its a good way to do it. If you are chalenged to find the room in your garage (or living room for that matter) for yor project Elan, then putting the body on the chassis as soon as you can isn't that big of a deal. On a S2 the only things that really have to be in place are the fuel line, emergency brake cable, the brake lines, front to rear (it just makes it a lot easier) and the top front control arms (this is a must) and saddle blanket if you use one.
Gary

[RotoFlexible]

I took the minimal approach - brake lines, top control arms, saddle, fuel line, and steering rack. I neglected to install the handbrake cable but should have no problem snaking it through the empty spine. I was working with the frame at waist height on sawhorses (a real pleasure) but kept in mind that I had to transfer it to the floor by myself, so I wanted to keep the weight down. Also, I didn't have the diff finished when I was ready to install the frame. With the body and frame supported on crates, I had no trouble installing the diff and I expect no problems with the suspension. (My wife has her garage spot back so she's happy, which is another good reason to join the frame to the body sooner rather than later.)