Chassis replacement in Single Garage - Logistics?

PostPost by: kerryblu » Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:19 pm

Hi Terry ,
What about using ajustable band stands Used in the building trade to hold the brickey and all his brickes. Will hold up the body on 2 4" planks no problem, also will go up quite heigh. Just a thought.

Gerald.
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PostPost by: pereirac » Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:30 pm

If you are lifting the body with the engine in you will have to remove the heater valve as it catches on the inside to the bodywork when you try to lift the body.
I had 4 friend help me lift the body which sat on the front lawn of the house while I did the rest of the work.
New chassis on axle stands in the garage, old chassis on the drive in front of the garage, then remove/clean/swop/replace parts until I had a rolling chassis in the garage and a bare chassis outside. Then body back on, mark holes, remove body, tap holes, body back and reconnect everything. I seem to remember there are 19 bolts to remove to remove the body..

CLub Lotus had a data sheet on replacing the chassis, you may still be able to get it from them or I might have a copy.

One thing i did learn though, whatever you expect to spend to do the work, double it!!

Good luck

Carl
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PostPost by: rdssdi » Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:51 pm

I only have photos of the body being lowered on the new Spyder chassis. I used the same method for removal of the body.

I had the chassis and engine covered in plastic to protect it when wet sanding/paint removal. Subsequently the body was removed to complete the body work and paint.

The lifts I used are used by HVAC contractors. Called "Hi Jackers" here in the U.S.. It proved an easy and stable method.

Bob
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PostPost by: jk952 » Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:00 am

Hi Terry,
In the keep it simple mode; when I did my S3 some years ago, there was a single garage under the house, it was about 10x20 (in feet but that's what I am use to for houses). I raised the body to as far as stands, wood blocks etc. could get it, left the wheels etc. on the old chassis. Called upon some neighbours and friends, fortunately all bigger than I, had them lift the body the final amount and I rolled the chassis out from under, and quickly moved my premade 2"x4" wood work horses under the body so they could set it down, carefully placed of course. ( detailed 2x4 engineered stress calculations :) )
Looking at old photo's it seems I moved the body to the side and end of the garage and refitted the engine trans etc. in the new chassis with it placed diagonally at the other end of the garage. Though I didn't at the time, I suggest you just remove the head entirely before the body since it will be coming off anyway likely.
Post pict's be nice to see....
Jack
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PostPost by: terryp » Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:41 pm

As Michael Caine at the end of the Italian job said ....Hang on a minute lads, I've gotta great idea ............
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eazi-Rizer-Bi ... 7039180973
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:49 pm

terryp wrote:As Michael Caine at the end of the Italian job said ....Hang on a minute lads, I've gotta great idea ............
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eazi-Rizer-Bi ... 7039180973


Great find Terry, those look perfect! Wish I could have found something that good when I was doing it. Similar to Bob's Hi-Jacker set-up but more affordable. Buy the pair and rent them out! :)

Here is a good link for additional info on them:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-lift/bike-lift/
Stu
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Tue Jan 17, 2012 5:05 am

Yes; like a mini and cheapo version of the MaxJax (which by the way many of us are waiting for pix of as installed by "Bill") . . .
elan-f14/two-post-four-post-lift-t15739-15.html

I really like the MaxJax, but a little more money . . .
http://maxjaxusa.com/

Will be doing some research on Eazi-Rizer . . .

(and dig what that eBay-er has been lifting with those Eazi-Rizers! :shock: )
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Jan 17, 2012 4:51 pm

Though it seems american it appears that that bike lift is actually made in the UK.

http://www.on-bike.com/products.htm
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PostPost by: terryp » Tue Jan 17, 2012 5:13 pm

I've been bamboozled! My wife has suggested we ask our friends / neighbours to lend a hand rather than spend rather a lot of money ...... I was up for it!
Back to my joists ..............

Terry
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:55 pm

terryp wrote:I've been bamboozled! My wife has suggested we ask our friends / neighbours to lend a hand rather than spend rather a lot of money ...... I was up for it!
Back to my joists ..............

Terry


Even cheaper Terry! If you can get the crew to dead lift the body so the floor pan is about 2" clear of the chassis centre spine it should work fine. Would have one person ready to insert two steel square section tubes between the body and the centre spine, and then set body down on the square tubes.

Steel square tubes would have eye bolts at each end. Lift the steel tubes and body assembly using four pulley hoists running to the roof joists. The pulley hoists I used were simpler and with more mechanical advantage than this one, but you hopefully get the idea.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-Bike-Hoi ... 2eb11800b2

This set-up would allow you to move the body in the future without assembling a large group for help. Body can be lowered easily on to a cart with castors when you want to work on it.

Don't know weight of the Elan body, but assume Plus 2 is considerably heavier. Apparently lifting the Plus 2 from the bumpers is not recommended as it can cause cracking at the fenders. Assuming you would prefer to keep the body essentially assembled while working on the chassis due to limited space, so may include doors, glass, boot lid, interior components, etc. so can weigh quite a bit? Would recommend using jacks of some kind to initially free the body from the spine to avoid putting a lot of stress in the body unit during lifting.

HTH
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PostPost by: jk952 » Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:46 pm

Good suggestions from Stu on the lift.
The elan body can't be that heavy as four non-weight-lifting type men can lift it without incurring future hernia operations... that I've heard of...

For the initial separation of body from frame, I jacked up the enitre vehicle as far as I could, supported the body at four (distributed) points (eg jack points) , then lowered the chassis progressivley front and rear, making sure everything was clear. Why - simple - service jack works single handedly on the middle of the chassis, it's own weight separating it from the body, and since not to easy to secure a lift to the body.
ps...no I'm not a nuffee... :)

...Once clear slide the tubes for the lift in..
Jack
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PostPost by: innesw » Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:11 pm

Just about to jump in and give my advice, turns out I'd just be repeating what has already been said! Lots of good tips, I've also got spare taps and the correct size drill bits but looks like Richard has beaten me to it on the "good Samaritan" front. Here's a picture of one I made earlier! 8)

f5.JPG and


(Only just fitted with enough height for chassis out and without it hitting the top scaffolding cross spar).

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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:38 am

terryp wrote:I've been bamboozled! My wife has suggested we ask our friends / neighbours to lend a hand rather than spend rather a lot of money

Sorry to say, Terry, but my current thinking is with your wife, and Stu's ideas. Manual lift, with cross bars placed through, then overhead lift from the ceiling/rafters/joists, etc. (or overhead lift from a scaffolding). It seems the simplest, most direct and most cost-efficient.

Even though I'm a huge fan of the MaxJax (slick 2-post lift for restricted height shops).
Last edited by Sea Ranch on Thu Jan 19, 2012 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:18 am

I have done it with both my Elan and Plus 2 as a one man operation. Used standard jacks and axle stands and wooden blocks to raise the body above the chassis. Then inserted cross beams under the body and above the chassis backbone and hoisted from the garage roof beams to get the body high enough so could work on the chassis.

I lifted the body from the outer ends of a beam inserted just in front of the rear arches and from the centre of a beam just behind the front arches. I removed the engine first so this front beam could be fitted just in front of the gear box.


cheers
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PostPost by: alaric » Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:15 pm

Hi Terry. With my plus2 I gradually jacked the body up with 4 hydraulic jacks and increasing numbers of wood spacers. Once clear of the chassis tunnel I made up some inserts to go into the sills that each provided a large ring through which I could push a scaffold pole. The poles were therefore 'locked' to the body and extended beyond either side enough to allow me to sit the body on 4 stools that were high enough to allow the chassis and engine to be rolled out from under the car. Worked a treat. I lifted it all on my own taking my time, but then had help to put the body back on. I'm not sure if there's a similar jacking hole on the 2 seater elan that could be used in the same way.

So there's a bit of work to do on the car then?

Sean.
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