Repair or Replace Chassis?

[types26/36]

If you want to incur the wrath of the likes of Miles Wilkins, tell him you repaired your chassis.
I was always told they are not repairable because the heat from welders etc, can distort them, and bugger up the suspension geometry.

But of course.....a supplier would say that wouldnt they

[rdssdi]

'heat from welders etc, can distort them, and bugger up the suspension geometry."

As opposed to the heat of welding the chassis when new.

I assume it comes down to the knowledge and competence of the shop affecting the repairs.

Bob

[Sea Ranch]

And we can assume, too (I hope), that the original chassis were clamped to a fabrication table/surface/jig as parts were added on, in order to end up with the various critical points in proper position/dimension/alignment.

This is the trick for us "garage rebuilders": can the chassis be located and immobilized while the patching and welding is done?

I've never tried it. Sounds possible in theory, but in practice the cracks are probably accompanied by corrosion and consequent thinning of the material, to the point that you can't simply weld them without adding patch plates, which in turn would have to be accurately fabricated, etc. All of this followed, of course, by the nagging question, "What else is about to crack or give way that I can't see?"

If it hasn't already come up, that's when the "Is it worth it?" arises . . .

Can't wait to see the chassis on my new-to-me, sight-unseen '70 Plus 2 . . .

[alaric]

Repairing a chassis that's badly corroded and old. Nah - really false economy so you've made the right choice. Interested to know the relative cost of spyder vs original including the cost of fitting either.

Sean.

[elansprint71]

The original poster does not appear to have been back here since July 13th 2010; I for one, would be absolutely fascinated to see if his enquiry managed to add anything to the repair or replace, debate which; to my certain knowledge, has been going on since at least 1968.

[Sea Ranch]

Is there really any debate amongst those of you who have actually "been there and done that", or is the debate strickly amongst those who are contemplating their options for the first time (or simply "armchair-quarterbacking") . . . ?

[jeff jackson]

Bob Wrote"
'heat from welders etc, can distort them, and bugger up the suspension geometry."

As opposed to the heat of welding the chassis when new.

I assume it comes down to the knowledge and competence of the shop affecting the repairs.

Bob"

But As already stated that when a chassis is made or anything fabricated accurately in this way, then a jig or a fixture is made to hold all the elements in place first. People who designed and made the jigs and fixtures are called toolmakers and usually did a four year apprenticeship. Thats what I did in fact.
Kind regards
Jeff

[rdssdi]

My +2 chassis initially appeared OK but closer inspection once the body had been removed revealed repairs at the left rear suspension mounting points. I was not happy with that nor the "small" bend of the "platform" which holds the steering rack.

I purchased a new Spyder unit. As was mentioned earlier in this thread, repairing is a bit of false economy. The only way I could see repairing being a proper solution is if the car had a much greater value running the original chassis. which as far as I know is not the case.

Get a new galvanized Lotus chassis. Will probably last longer than most owners given the little use these cars generally receive.

Bob

[milestricks]

The body is now off my Plus 2. My mechanic says he can repair it and make it straight for around $1500. He wanted to give me the option of replacing the chassis if I wanted to but I just don't see how without robbing a bank. I know that I can buy a replacement chassis but at what cost? Does any one have an extra straight chassis at a reasonable price?

goodluck