Is this chassis bent? Forum wisdom required!

[Foxie]

<Snip>The chassis was replaced in 1983 so it looks like it had a front suspension tower failure allowing the wheel to fold back. Not a pleasant experience I would imagine.

I have seen warnings about this here before.

I have a roll-over hoop braced to the rear towers rather than a full cage (someday ) but I have fitted a section of roll cage tubing in the footwell, bolted to the front Spyder sill member on the outside, and the corresponding body-to-chassis bolt on the inside.

[berni29]

Hi

Does having the hoop make it impossible for someone to sit in the back? Was it a bespoke item or can they be bought?

Thanks!

Berni

[berni29]

Hi

Just to continue this a bit longer, here are pictures of both turrets for what it is worth.

Does anyone know if there is any way to check if the chassis turrets are out of alignment without removing the body?

Many thanks!

Berni

[Bigbaldybloke]

It almost looks as if the body is sitting too low in the chassis. I’ll try to find time tomorrow to take similar pictures and measure the distance from the top of the upright to the underside of the body directly above the shock. If the chassis uprights are leaning in the wheel camber will be out which you should be able to measure.
Currently my car is up on axle stands all round and is set level, I have a magnetic digital level that I use for setting up material on my milling machine, I’ll see if I can get a good reading of the angle of the upright, hopefully sometime tomorrow.

[berni29]

Hi

Actually the body does seem to sit quite low, I was thinking the same thing!

Also I like the magnetic gauge idea. I can get the chassis level then use my magnetic camber gauge and see if there is an obvious difference side to side. I think it might fit inside the turret.

Food for thought, many thanks!

Berni

[alan.barker]

Berni,
what distance do you have from the Camcover to inside of Bonnet (you can measure with plastercine or blue tack). If body is too low there will be contact between Camcover and inside of Bonnet.
Alan

[Bigbaldybloke]

Had a look at mine today, it’s a Spyder stressed skin chassis, over 30 years old but never been on the road since fitted - long story.
Attached photos should be pretty self explanatory, only thing to not that the axle stands are not exactly level, the front cross member slopes about 1.3 degrees to one side so that needs to be taken into account when looking at the upright angles. If the cross member was exactly level that face on the upright would be at about 83.5 degrees.
The gap from top of tower to the underside of the body is pretty much the same both sides at approx 2.5 inches.
Out of curiosity I checked the level on the cam cover and it slopes approx 1/2 degree in same direction as the chassis.
See also photo of gap between intake housing and inner wing, this also gives an idea of the position of the body to the engine. Sorry about the orientation of some of the photos but I’m sure you’ll work out which way is up!

[Donels]

It does look more of a body issue than a chassis issue. Are there any shims between the chassis and body?
You can shim to raise the body, the limit being gap under the air intake box as shown in BBB's picture.

[berni29]

Hi Guys

Thank you so much! Very interesting measurements and pictures, hopefully I can compare over the weekend.

I asked the PO and he said the bonnet will shut with the engine fully built up and in place. The underneath of the bonnet is bare with no insulation on. I am not so sure, I have not seen a picture of the car with it closed so far.

I have asked the PO if he knows about any shimming when the body was refitted.

Thanks again

Berni

[alan.barker]

Berni,
Check yourself with Plastercine.
Takes 5 minutes no guesin
Alan

[Bigbaldybloke]

If you look at the initial post and pictures, the car doesn’t have an engine in it to put any plasticine on!

[berni29]

Hello again

The engine is in there loosely assembled, but actually the only bit I am waiting for is the cam cover! So these measurements will have to wait for sure.

Does anyone know how high you have to lift the body to adjust or fit shims, or is it completely off proposition?

Here are a couple of other pictures which show the current lie of the land (or body) a bit more clearly. The way the body bolts on to the front of the steering rack arms looks strange to me. What do we think?

The wheel arch gap on the chassis intrusion side is definitely tighter than on the other. By about an average horizontal finger.

Many thanks again!!

Berni

[alan.barker]

Berni29,
sorry to say looking at the flanges next to the Steering Rack that the Body is too far forward.
I would check to see if the Body is fully back and touching Rear turrets without Packing.
How did the previous owner determine position of Body before drilling Chassis.
Fitting a Body to a Chassis is not just a case of throwing it on the Chassis drill holes and bolt up (causing lots of stress etc).
Sorry to paint a gloomy picture.
Alan

[Bigbaldybloke]

Doesn’t look right to me, the nose looks too far forward although the wheels look in about the right place in the arches. See picture below for mine.

[berni29]

Hi

Interesting, I did say to the PO when I went to see the car that the nose did look slightly forwards, but I have had a plus 2 (and have seen others) where there is only a small gap in the straight ahead position between the tyre and the lower front edge of the wheel arch. That really bugs me so a reasonably large gap was no problem.

Here is a quickly taken picture of a rear turret and it's relationship with the body. I will have to take the wheel off to have a proper look.

Thanks again

Berni