Locating the body onto the chassis for drill and tap

[reb53]

It's been a while since I did my chassis so any chance of a few photos to help us formulate some ideas?

The first thought that comes to mind, and it'd be a touch tedious, is a small Dremel type grinder with a diamond bit.
Unless, as mentioned, there's room for a bit of creative welding.

Ralph.

[bloodknock]

Hi chaps
Oh woe, 4mm drill, tried needle nose, cant grip the flutes strongly enough because access too small. The drill is broken about a half mil into the hole. Going to try just slightly grinding the needle noses to get access, but the drill has bitten into the steel in the hole and is jammed pretty solid.
Bob

[robertverhey]

Hmm time to get creative..... Possible to araldite or superglue other part of drill bit back on to stuck bit and then carefully apply your cordless drill to reverse it out?

Left hand drill bits ( these do exist!) and cordless drill to loosen it up?

[MickG]

Hi Bob,
This may not be of much help but I had a similar problem where the PO had broken an easyout in one of the bolt holes holding the sump. No way could this be drilled out.
I am assuming that the drill has broken of just as it was about to break through the other side?
The machine shop heated the offending item to red heat and drilled it out. This may not be an option in your case has you will need access to gas welding gear and be careful not to distort the surrounding frame.
Just a guess here but if you have MIG welding equipment it maybe possible to blob a quick weld on top of the broken drill bit (thus softening the metal) and then carefully re-drill. I don't know maybe it will work maybe not, but if all else fails could be worth a try.
Good luck!
Regards Mick G

[bloodknock]

Thanks Gents
Will bear all suggestions in mind. Just about to go out to wrestle with it again. Say a prayer!
Bob

[bloodknock]

Two bloody hours wiggling with ground down pliers ....no joy.
Calculated opposite point on rear of turret and drilled hole, then used pin punch to tap it out. Now have to plug hole.
On to the next one with drill torque set lower and very gradual increments of hole size.
Dont suppose that the extra hole on the rear of the turret will represent a problem strength wise?
Regards
Bob Skerritt

[billwill]

You could perhaps bash it IN with a pin punch. It might then rattle in the upright so squirt some thin glue in through the hole to glue the broken drill to the inside to stop it rattling.

[billwill]

The hole on the other side is unlikely to be a problem. It is round (I presume) so no corner stresses and near the centre of a flat bit of steel, with plenty of strength.

Think of it as adding a bit of lightness.