Painting the chassis

[JonB]

After a long time spent with a scraper and other such tools, my S4 chassis is now mostly free of undercoat, revealing very little rust and lots of red oxide paint. I was thinking of painting it directly with a product called Simoniz Tough Paint, Satin Black. I had excellent results using this stuff on my Plus 2, but I've since seen some reviews that question just how tough it really is (seemingly, "not very").

Here are some parts I painted with Tough Paint whilst improving the Plus 2. They looked even better in the flesh.

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45352&f=38&start=15#p324708

I've searched the forums and POR-15 comes up quite often, but it seems to need some sort of undercoat and top coat. Not really for me! And neither is Hammerite, which I loathe. I plan to blast or wire brush the rust away, then apply a single stage paint.

So, should I stick with Tough Paint, or use something else, and if so, what?

Cheers
JonB

P.S., I am not powder coating or galvanising it.

[h20hamelan]

this stuff held up to salt calcium chloride and harsh BC winters for 15 years. Never moved. Rust did not encroach.

https://www.google.com/search?client=sa ... 8&oe=UTF-8

there are many brands, permatex is trusted.

then paint overtop

[mbell]

POR_15 doesn't need under or top coating. It needs a rough and clean finish to adhere well, so its not very good on fresh metal.

It is also UV sensitive, that why people say it needs top coating. But even in Texas with very strong sunlight its not an issue for a chassis that doesn't get direct sunlight.

[richardcox_lotus]

I used Rust Buster on my front suspension. After 4 years, it’s not in bad condition, but not perfect.

Regards,
Richard

[GLB]

I used Southern Polyurethane red oxide epoxy primer on the frame of my Elan 1600. Followed the directions given to me by the owner Barry on how to prep for paint. He answers his phone 7 days a week and gives great advice. Even on the tabs that secure the brake lines the coating did not crack or peel off after two placements of lines. It is UV sensitive but chassis doesn't see the sun. A very close match to the original red color. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. Gary

[alan.barker]

I thought you had a new Lotus galvanised Chassis with your car.
Imho you would be better fitting that. No need to paint galvanised.
Alan
p.s. if you keep original Chassis get all dimensions checked. Plus around Engine brackets for no cracks and around Diff attachement points no cracks. These Chassis suffer from cracks over the years and fatige

[JonB]

Yes Alan, there's a genuine LR chassis hanging from the ceiling of my workshop. But as I said, the condition of the original chassis is outstanding after 53 years, apart from rusted front turrets which are repairable. I'm not going to pay £££s to have it measured for true. The car was on the road for 20 years, then stored for 30 and there are no cracks or other visible artefacts at all. I measured the diagonals per the manual and they are the same. Also a number of other measurements which I won't bore you with now. If you could see this thing you'd understand my point. I've showed it to forum member elanintheforest who lives nearby, and he thinks it's worth using. Hopefully he will see this post and chime in. And the only thing I found that wasn't completely spot on is present in the LR chassis, too. Go figure...

If I rebuild the car on this chassis and it turns out to have odd handling characteristics, I can always swap in the LR. It will be easy as I won't be dealing with rusty fasteners. I just don't want to risk DVLA aggro at this time, and assuming it goes well, can recoup some money by selling the LR in the future.

[alan.barker]

I see your point 100% to keep original chassis if possible.
Maybe you can do a deal with spyder who have the Jigs. You dealt with them before for the +2 front Tower and were happy.
They could add some 26R mods.
Nothing like keeping original if poss.
Good luck in the super project.
Alan

[JonB]

Spider informed me they no longer do repairs to folded steel chassis (what's the plural of that?) because they sell new ones (presumably their space framed type). Which I doubt would pass muster with the DVLA but what do I know? Ha!

The other thing of note is that they charged like a wounded rhinocerous to remove the jammed spindle on my Plus 2, did some other bits that weren't asked for or necessary (but charged for), and left the handbrake cable disconnected without telling me. Hmmm... I was quite happy with the repair, but not with the exorbitant price or the other things.

[alan.barker]

Try phoning Miles Wilkins and ask about "Gartrac" contact. If it's fixed by them then 100%
Alan

[pharriso]

Spider informed me they no longer do repairs to folded steel chassis (what's the plural of that?) because they sell new ones (presumably their space framed type). Which I doubt would pass muster with the DVLA but what do I know? Ha!

Here we go again… no need to tell them!

[JonB]

Spider informed me they no longer do repairs to folded steel chassis (what's the plural of that?) because they sell new ones (presumably their space framed type). Which I doubt would pass muster with the DVLA but what do I know? Ha!

Here we go again… no need to tell them!

No need to roll your eyes, I’m fully aware of the chassis vs. subframe argument and I don’t care about it. However, the only identity on my V5 is the 5 digit chassis number. It wasn’t registered with the full VIN as shown on the VIN plate. So if I swap chassis (“subframe”) there won’t be anything to match the car to the V5. Can’t see a way around that. Apart from telling them…

[alan.barker]

What "PORKIES"
thanks Rodney
Alan

[JonB]

What "PORKIES"
thanks Rodney
Alan

??? Huh ???

[jono]

I had mine blasted by a friendly structural steelwork shotblaster, then repaired, then back for reblasting and painting with several coats zinc phosphate primer then top coated in good old 2 pack.

Everything including welding came to around £320 all in

I think that blasting really is the key (pun intended) to a durable finish.