Talk to me about chassis

[fatal3rror]

A thorough inspection of my +2 has indicated that in the near future, a chassis replacement might be on the cards. I have read through various threads but be good to get some thoughts here. I would like to keep the car as close to original as possible, so the Spyder upgraded version is out. Options I am considering are:

A) Original style chassis (what's the best source for these? I see Gartrac, SJ and Paul Matty as potential places to buy?)
B) Lotus type replacement stress skinned chassis Elan +2 from Spyder (Any 1st hand experience with these?)
C) Ebay listings which come up every so often

[Andy8421]

All of the 'original' frames (chassis) are produced by Gartrac for Miles Wilkins who owns the license from Lotus. The usual suspects obtain their frames from Miles / Gartrac.

I believe Gartrac have now moved, they used to be not far from me in Chiddingfold, in the same road as the 'Farm' studios owned by the band Genesis.

Edit: Regarding which to use, depending on budget, I would go with the original style. Given the cost of a rebuild, the price of a new frame is small in comparison to the overall expense, and gives a known, solid base to build on.

[Mazzini]

How bad is the chassis? My chum Chris, whom used to handcraft new E-type bodies, could probably sort it. He's up the road in Darlington.

[fatal3rror]

Thanks Andy!

How bad is the chassis? My chum Chris, whom used to handcraft new E-type bodies, could probably sort it. He's up the road in Darlington.

Not requiring any immediate replacement/rectification but just thinking ahead for now. I will drop you a PM for Chris' details. Thanks!

[Lotusian]

I have the Spyder “stressed skin” (ie Lotus replica, but much better) chassis on my Plus 2 and my Sprint. Highly recommended and cheaper than the weaker “official “ version, and available at short notice.
Hint: get Spyder to omit the towing loop. It’s useless and a dead giveaway when you look underneath.
Ian

[billwill]

Once you have changed it DO NOT TELL THE DVLC that you have a new chassis number or they will probably make you re-register with a Q numberplate which will diminish the value of your car.

It was long ago established by a Lotus official (who alas is no longer alive) that the metal bit under a Lotus Elan or +2 is a subframe not a chassis; the identity of the car is that which is written on the VIN plate in the engine compartment, not the Chassis Number.

For the avoidance of problems with MOT / DVLA inspectors who are not aware of this, it is a good investment to buy/ borrow a set of number punches and to punch your existing subframe number onto the new subframe above the new LR subframe number. It is easier to do this before you put the body back on. The number is on the top surface of the frame, near where the exhaust system passes very close to the frame.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Plus 1 for the Spyder stressed skin replica, got one in my Plus 2. Same comments about towing hoop and if you are sticking with vacuum operated headlights ensure there is a drain plug in the front cross member.

[vincereynard]

Doesn't "I would like to keep the car as close to original as possible" automatically disqualify the Spyder "updated" chassis?

[alan.barker]

I have the Spyder “stressed skin” (ie Lotus replica, but much better) chassis on my Plus 2 and my Sprint. Highly recommended
Ian

IMHO this is a personal choice .
Impossible for me to fit a Spyder Sub Frame/Chassis.
If later you find the original Chassis only has problems in the Front Towers you can take it to Gartrac and they will repair as needed.
That way your car is as original as possible.
As i said a personal choice and imho it's not possible to reconvert the converted
For normal driving on the road the original set up is easily good enough. Even driving on a circuit you need to be good or have a lot of experience to tell the difference.
Alan

[fatal3rror]

Thanks all for your inputs. Think the original is the way to go for me.

[USA64]

As the "sub-frame" appears to folded up origami-fashion from a flat piece of sheet steel it would seem to be perfect for carbon fiber. I wonder, has anyone tried it? Does anyone know it wouldn't work? Something stiffer at half the weight would be so Lotus!

[Grizzly]

Once you have changed it DO NOT TELL THE DVLC that you have a new chassis number or they will probably make you re-register with a Q numberplate which will diminish the value of your car.

It was long ago established by a Lotus official (who alas is no longer alive) that the metal bit under a Lotus Elan or +2 is a subframe not a chassis; the identity of the car is that which is written on the VIN plate in the engine compartment, not the Chassis Number.

For the avoidance of problems with MOT / DVLA inspectors who are not aware of this, it is a good investment to buy/ borrow a set of number punches and to punch your existing subframe number onto the new subframe above the new LR subframe number. It is easier to do this before you put the body back on. The number is on the top surface of the frame, near where the exhaust system passes very close to the frame.

I don't want to get into this...... but the DVLA only have an issue if you for example replace a standard stress skin chassis with a space frame (on any car a replacement has to be standard for standard part then the DVLA have no issue) that is across the board (it includes Sub frames)....... the only time a Spyder chassis was acceptable by the DVLA was back when the Original design was out of production (any agreement was void the second the original design chassis was put back into production). Today!! if the DVLA find out you have replaced the Chassis with a space frame you will go on a Q plate unless you can prove the chassis was fitted during the time the standard design was out of production. So the Option is standard replacement chassis in which case you can update any Chassis number with no issue or fit a Spyder Chassis and keep it to your self. IMHO just fit a 26R type strengthened stress skin chassis (ideally get it galvanized)

I did quite a bit of research into this after a past thread on here and i know this is now accurate.

BTW, don't stamp an LR number into a Spider chassis, to anyone that knows anything about Lotus Elans it will stand out like a sore thumb it's been tampered with and tampering with a cars ID would involve the Police if caught!! On top of that if you sell it without telling the new owner it has a "Suspect" chassis number you could find your self in court. I just wouldn't to be honest.........

[Matt Elan]

My brother in law repaired Glenn moule’s s3 coupe chassis, but he is down in the south east so a bit far from Leeds....currently doing a plus 2.

[billwill]

No-one suggested stamping an LR number.

My suggestion above would have BOTH numbers on the sub-frame and I was talking about Lotus Replacement subframes, not Spyder ones.

Your description of DVLA practice, might well be what it is TODAY, but it certainly was not thus back in 1978.

The main problem even now is that though that might well be the proper DVLA practice, you first have to reach someone in the DVLA who knows that. Most of the lower minions do not seem to know about the unusual situations.

Fitting a Spyder subframe would almost certainly prevent you claiming MOT exemption too.

[EPC 394J]

It was long ago established by a Lotus official (who alas is no longer alive) that the metal bit under a Lotus Elan or +2 is a subframe not a chassis

I can offer literally hundreds of examples of the manufacturer referring to the lump of metal under the fibreglass body as a chassis. Is there anywhere in the manufacturer’s documentation referring to it as a “subframe”?

Google ‘chassis‘ and ‘subframe’ and see which images look most like our cars.