Removing Shell from Subframe

[Own Little World]

Hi all,

After spending some time stripping down my +2 shell I am about ready to lift it from its rotten subframe.

Can anyone point me towards a checklist or diagram of all the points where the shell and frame are attached as well as any handy hints and advice?

Very many thanks in advance and best regards to all of you.

Alec

[Sea Ranch]

Workshop manual details this, along with many good threads here.

Let's see . . . from memory . . . 2 at front (from inside the nose), 2 at back (from below), 2 on the rear strut tower (from inside, forward edge, near top), 2 on the front shock tower (from in engine bay). That makes 8. I believe there are 18 (correction: 16), so 2 more on top of transmission hump, immediately behind the lower center of the fascia (from inside the car); that leaves 3 pairs along the chassis flange, from the bottom of the car.

The tank to fuel pump line has to be disconnected at the tank, some grounds in engine bay. The park brake cable has to be removed. Steering column unclamped and pulled from the U joint at the rack. Clutch hydraulic line (union of hard line from master to the flex line). Brake hydraulic line (where depends on your setup . . . your choice). Cooling system heater hoses from front cover and thermostat housing to the heater matrix (beastly access at the heater matrix in/out tubes at the firewall; could opt for the other ends). The most hidden and easily forgotten is probably the reverse light electrical connection (top of gearbox, immediately aft of the bell housing).

I think that's the bulk of it. When you start lifting it clear anything else will become apparent.

I used workmate benches (nod to Ron Hicks) and other sawhorse type things to support the two crossmembers I used (2x4 or 2x6, doubled up and screwed together, to lift fore and aft) and rested them on the workmates and sawhorses.

When I put the shell back on, I used a lift point in the ceiling for lifting the rear. I attached to the two rear strut tower to chassis mounting bobbins and also put the steel crossmember in place to strengthen the body shell at this point. Required a bolt through the crossmember and bobbin from the inside of the car and a nut on the inside of the shell's strut tower, but the nuts were still easy to remove before the shell came fully down into place.

Good luck, post pix, etc.!!

Oh, one more thing . . . do NOT lift the shell before replacing the sill members or ascertaining they are absolutely solid. Don't want any distortion of the shell.

Regards,

Randy

[alan.barker]

+1 don't lift Body/Shell before replacing Sill Members and when lifting leave doors in place and closed.
Lift between front and back Wheels under the new Sill Members.
Have fun
Alan

[Jason1]

Club lotus have a list (see attached).

Jason

[martinbrowning]

Has anybody mentioned the seatbelt mounting bolts that go through the sides of the tunnel and into the chassis? Only remembered it on my Europa when my four "volunteers" lifted the shell and realised that the wheels were off the ground......

Good luck

Martin

[MarkDa]

Whilst thinking seat belts - how about uppers into rear turrets - or is that 2 seater only?

[TeeJay]

Has anybody mentioned the seatbelt mounting bolts that go through the sides of the tunnel and into the chassis? Only remembered it on my Europa when my four "volunteers" lifted the shell and realised that the wheels were off the ground......

Yes, I fell down that rat hole:-

Those 2 bolts are not mentioned in either the Club Lotus bulletin or the Workshop manual.

[Mick6186]

The back webbing for the front seat belts do not go to the chassis. They go to plates in the rear wheel arch.
Mick

[TeeJay]

The back webbing for the front seat belts do not go to the chassis. They go to plates in the rear wheel arch.
Mick

Mick, you are correct in what you say; but with respect; have missed the point of the bolts that go into the chassis transmission tunnel.

The +2, has a 3 point seat belt.

The part with the Inertia Wheel is bolted to the plate in the rear wheel arch; the ones you refer to; the other end is bolted into the metal sill.

Then the inner belt, which accepts the buckle, is secured to the transmission tunnel.
It is these that MUST be removed as part of the Body removal.

[Own Little World]

Wow guys!

Thanks you so much for all that good info. I think a lot of the bolts mentioned are rusted up and will come off with a skinny disk. I have all new seatbelt anchor plates to fit so I will get new bolts too - is stainless OK for this or would you recommend mild steel again?

I will pay careful attention to all of your tips. Actually one of the doors is off so I will replace it before lifting. I was originally going to leave it off to make it all easier to lift but I suppose it makes sense to put it back on.

I have brand new thicker gauge Spyder sills to fit first too.

The steering column is quite badly corroded so I will put a load of freeing oil on the fixings. Do I just remove the bolt clamping the bar in at the rack end, loosen the bolts under the dash and then twist and pull back?

I am really very grateful for all your kind help. I will spend a few hours with the angle grinder and tools before recruiting helpers.

[MarkDa]

You may not get the steering uj through the firewall so be prepared to remove it from the column.

[alan.barker]

Leave Steering Column in place. If you have a collapsible column undo the Pinch Clamp. Remove Bolt that goes through the uj to Steering Rack completely and slide up off Steering Rack.
Alan