Elan plus 2 chassis reinforcement

[Dieschelan]

I have just separate body from chassis. The chassis is the original chassis and is in good condition. Is recommended a reinforcement of the chassis or is not necesary?

[RichC]

not neccessary !
Advise to check the glassfibre round the bobbins is free of cracks / damage , especially bow & stern

[rgh0]

Have a close look at the top suspension tower brackets for the rear strcuts. The sides of these tend to buckle over time, putting a reinforcing flange on them is advisable in my experience

Have a close look at the engine mount brackets they normally have some cracks in them

Have a close look at the brackets the rear A frame the inner bushes mount in the welds to the lower chassis tray can crack and the brackets crack though the holes.

Look where the diff torque rods mount to the chassis as the welded in bolts can crack the chassis or the welds

Reinforcing all these areas can help prevent the failures and distortion listed above. Most other problem areas in the chassis are due to rust.

cheers
Rohan

[wotsisname]

oh and...
Be very careful of residual fuel or vapour in the front cross-member if you decide to do any welding. I mean very careful .

[gus]

define good condition

the problem with reinforcement is that it just causes cracks next to the reinforcement, so I agree that most reinforcement is bad, but will debate that you can tell by looking that a chassis is in 'good' condition

[Dieschelan]

For me good condition is a chassis without cracks or rises and few rust. I think the best option is to put one new. I am looking the Spyder strees skinned chassis and the possibility to ad the r26 reinforcement.

[gus]

Honestly I would not mod a new chassis

The basic problem with the original chassis is rust. You cannot see it all and you can build a whole car on a chassis that will fail in 100 miles.

I have not heard of any significant failures in a galvy or Spyder chassis, as for instance my own car was in the beginning of failure when parked in 1981, failed totally in 1985, repaired, failed again in1993, replaced with Spyder space frame and no problems, so it is already twice the life of a factory chassis, and I am certain galvanized chassis have the same story.

My point being, whatever you buy new will be up to the job, so don't mess with it. If you are worried about failure, don't. If you are worried about stiffness, do the Spyder space frame.

New chassis, new sills, forget about it

[Dieschelan]

The problem with Spyder Space Frame is that is not an homologated chassis in some clubs. The modification is also done by Spyder and for a fast road car is security.

[gus]

You did not mention you were racing

[Dieschelan]

I will use the car for fast road. But in a future if I sell the car is better to have an homologated chassis.

[gus]

1] don't worry about what someone else will do with your car
2]There is no difference in value between cars with different types of chassis, new being the only advantage
3]I dunno about elsewhere, but no one races +2s here, one I've seen, perhaps two, to one hundred elans

[Dieschelan]

What?s the advantage in a Spyder Space Frame? My car will be used in road but I?m looking for a chassis that don?t give me problems.

[gus]

It is stiffer and allows some alternative engine transmission and suspension mods not available with the stock chassis. I have run mine with otherwise stock parts for 22 years with no problems.

[Dieschelan]

Gus thank you for the Information. Spyder Space Frame would be a good option for me.