Chassis fixings

[alfadave]

I'm in the middle of fitting my plus 2 body to my galv lotus chassis.

I have dropped the body on,and it was sitting down fully on the extreme front and rear of the chassis.

However the punch marks in the engine bay,on to the front uprights,came right at the bottom of the plates.

I now have the body jacked up,and the chassis will roll out.

Should I have another plate welded on the front upright, under the first,or shim the body up to hit the original plate?

Thanks,

Dave

[alan]

when the body was on the chassis what space did you have between the bobins at the front of the steering rack and body.
imho i prefer to have a gap between the bobins to rack lugs Then after the body is fully attached i then make up shims so there is not too much weight on the lugs next tp rack

[alfadave]

Alan,

the front bobbins were tight down on the plates in front of the rack.

Looking again,I would need to shim the body up at least 1/2" to hit the meat of the plate on the front uprights.

Spoke to Steve at SJ about it today.

He told me in no uncertain terms that I have to reset the engine comp bobbins higher!

Dave

[alan]

hi Dave,
this situation often happens because the tired old chassis towers had moved towards each other.
It's possible to cut a square maybe 10 cms around each bobin. With the hole in the bobbin off centre. Turn 180? and laminate back in place.
If the hole is 2 cms out you cut square 1 cm off centre. I hope you understand me.
For the body resting on the lugs near rack i would shim body to have a gap there. Make shims for these gaps when body is fully secured.
If there is too much weight this will deform steering rack lug height and you will have bumpsteer problems
Also with body in place before drilling fit bonnet and put some plastercine on front of camcover and close bonnet.
This is to check the camcover clearance