plus 2 chassis "Help"

[steveb131]

I am looking for some info on the chassis / vacuum tank. I am looking at a 1969 Elan plus 2 next week and it is unconfirmed whether the chassis has been changed. The head lights do not work and I know this could be caused by a number of factors but I am concerned about the chassis, which is white enamel. I believe they are never supplied in white, so I?m looking for tips on what to look for to check the condition.
Also any advice on other common weaknesses to look for would be much appreciated.

[billwill]

The main weakness is not the cross member vacuum tank, but the two front uprights, they are hollow and can get water in the top. If the small drain holes on the bottom edge are not kept clear the uprights rust from the inside out. The can look perfect outside but be paper thin. You need to poke them with a screwdriver. If the point goes through the chassis is knackered. The Bottom of those uprights is the sloping end of the vacuum tank, so it can rust through into the tank as well.

lotus-suspension-f42/how-repaired-rusty-front-suspension-turrets-t16727.html?hilit=chassis

But there are plenty of other reasons why the headlights might not lift. It is not necessarily the crossmember.

If it is painted white or coated white, it is likely to be a replacement chassis.

[steveb131]

Bill your a legend thank you .
Although worried about poking a screw driver in to the guys car although it should be solid .
If the chassis has been replaced " I so hope " where will i find a serial number for it ?.
also great shout on the drain holes any other advice on what to look out for a buying a plus 2 as i am a newbie at these ?

[billwill]

The chassis (officially a sub-frame) number should be on the flat top of the chassis near the engine mount on the exhaust side of the engine. If it is a Lotus replacement it will probably begin "LR" If the chassis has any tubes instead of flat steel sections it is probably a replacement made by Spyder.

The chassis number is NOT the car identification, merely a subframe serial number and if you change the subframe it is best not to tell DVLA; that can release a whole batch of bureaucratic bullsh*t (been there done that and it took many years to sort it out).

The car identification is the VIN number in the engine bay on the plate on top of the left hand footwell.


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I have no practical experience, but I gather that another chassis problem is that they can develop a permanent twist, but it will be impossible to see that by eye.

Holes, where things are fastened on, can get rusty and enlarge or elongate, but that will be hard to spot.

If the front turrets and vacuum cross member are OK and you can't see any rusty patches elsewhere the chassis is probably OK and it's time to look at other aspects of a car you are thinking of buying. eg state of the exhaust system, cleanliness of the engine (our twin-cams are always a bit oily) State of the rubber bits & the radiator etc, and the state of the dashboard and the interior trim & seats etc.

[steveb131]

Thanks for all the help i just hope this car is as good as was stated , Its one from ebay and my first venture in to the Elan plus 2 ,s .

its meant to be in good condition well apart from the lights not working and the boot not closing to fingers crossed .
I take it the boot is not commen problem ?

[billwill]

That might be a broken hinge or the incorrect strip used as a boot seal rubber.

You do have to be very aware of FRAUDulent adverts, Search for the word FRAUD using the search box at top right of the page, read the topics then repeat for SCAM.

Never part with money unless you have seen the actual car and can take it away immediately after paying over the money. Alex Black's recommendation is that you tell the seller that you will only perform the transfer inside a branch of a local bank. That will put off any fraudster.

[steveb131]

haha yeah that would do it .
Am heading down the road well england to collect it this week although will be a trailer job , The guy comes accros as genuine and i have agreed cash in hand when i get the car , So just hoping its all good really looking forward to getting it on the road just hope i can get it fixed up asap .
well thats if the chassis is in good order.
you seem very switched on with all this thanks for the help

[Bud English]

Another thing you might look for, although I've not heard of anyone else experiencing this, is cracking around where the engine mount "horn" attaches to the chassis. My '70 plus 2 chassis had a very obvious crack about 1 1/2" forward of the right mount attach point. It ran from the inside edge of the frame, across the top and down the side about 3/4". There was no other sign of damage in the area, neither to the frame nor the fiberglass and no other damage to the entire frame. I welded it up and added a doubler inside both sides of the frame in that area when I modified the chassis for my zetec motor mounts.

[billwill]

I hope you have been reading other topics in here too.
See this one that relates to Plus 2s
lotuselan-plus2-f51/buying-what-look-out-for-t29333.html#p195212

Having an S3 Coupe myself & never close contact with a Plus 2 I had forgotten that their door sills are prone to rusting away, but can be replaced and that this must be done first before lifting the body off (if you have any intention of doing that) or the body might buckle in the middles (?)

[gus]

Chassis points to check:

sides of front shock towers will develop cracks once the closing plate has rotted. Look rear facing surface near lower chassis gusset. From the engine bay cracks where top of frame rail meets upright. Heavy gussets added to the bottom of the shock tower is a sign something was going on and are a temporary fix.

Significant negative camber especially if the nose is high, lower wishbones are above level. Some negative camber is normal if the car sits low. Visible toe out is another sign.

Lower diff mount rod ends will tear out of chassis.



sills will almost certainly be rotten. I pulled all 4 jack points out with my fingers. They are fairly easy to change.

I would personally assume any original chassis is in the process of failing, the only real solution is replacement. I would do it before any paintwork etc as the body moves a bunch when removed from chassis. I have repaired an original chassis, built new shock towers, and it lasted about 6 years before it too failed.