Reattaching Elan window frames
9 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Considering repairing, Elan S-4 window frames that were cut. At one time, "some" thought the frames looked bad with the window down ( I didn't cut them). Would like to reattach them. What process to use? I think the frames are made of some type of brass. Should the frames be, brazed, some type of super filler rod, or? Is there a place in the USA that does this? Having them replated is not an issue, as I have had window frames plated before. The problem is attaching the top window frame. I know others must have done this. Thanks for the time and help. Steve V. In Arizona
- mr.vman
- Second Gear
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 22 Apr 2004
Hi Steve,
I am assuming that at some point you will need to butt the two halves of the frame together.
The frames as you say are brass; a very thin grade of brass that distorts quite easily with the application of heat. I know this from having to attach new steel bottoms to my window frames. Silver soldering requires less heat but is unsuitable for butt joints. I would try to attach small brass plates to the inside of the runner by silver soldering and then fill the outside with solder also. You may be able to braze them as you suggest but I feel more damage could result due to the heat required.
Best get the advice of an expert. I'm Not
A tricky job indeed, best of luck.
Regards Mick G
I am assuming that at some point you will need to butt the two halves of the frame together.
The frames as you say are brass; a very thin grade of brass that distorts quite easily with the application of heat. I know this from having to attach new steel bottoms to my window frames. Silver soldering requires less heat but is unsuitable for butt joints. I would try to attach small brass plates to the inside of the runner by silver soldering and then fill the outside with solder also. You may be able to braze them as you suggest but I feel more damage could result due to the heat required.
Best get the advice of an expert. I'm Not
A tricky job indeed, best of luck.
Regards Mick G
Last edited by MickG on Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MickG
- Third Gear
- Posts: 269
- Joined: 14 Jan 2011
I've seen an S3 somewhere in the US that had the frames removed, and it looked great - much better than with the frames......my opinion, and the guy who did it, of course.
I have to say that if I lived in a sunny climate I would be tempted to remove the frames..........takes me back to my old S2 days.
I have to say that if I lived in a sunny climate I would be tempted to remove the frames..........takes me back to my old S2 days.
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)
Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)
Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
-
bcmc33 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1708
- Joined: 10 Apr 2006
The frames would need to be "Butt welded". Some type of low temperature filler material that is strong, does it all. The bigger problem might be "jigging" the window for brazing or? I am sure this has been done. Curious what others suggest. Thanks for the replies. Steve V. in Arizona USA
- mr.vman
- Second Gear
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 22 Apr 2004
Howdy, I'm part of the "some" that believe the window frames should disappear.
I've had a scheme in my mind where I would cut off the frames and then have a sliding channel on the inside of the frame, or maybe outside, where I could re-attach the upper frame when needed. Where were yours cut off?
I suggest advertising for a swap, someone who has an uncut set of frames, for yours.
Re-welding is sloppy.
pm me if you're interested in the sleeve idea.
Eric
I've had a scheme in my mind where I would cut off the frames and then have a sliding channel on the inside of the frame, or maybe outside, where I could re-attach the upper frame when needed. Where were yours cut off?
I suggest advertising for a swap, someone who has an uncut set of frames, for yours.
Re-welding is sloppy.
pm me if you're interested in the sleeve idea.
Eric
- 1964 S1
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1294
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
I butt welded some brass hinges a few years ago using my TIG welder, and I was surprised how easy and effective it was, even though my welding experience is quite limited. The plate thickness of about .090" contributed a lot to the ease of the job, but I was surprised how easy it was to control penetration and how little distortion I got. It was way easier than welding aluminum. You might want to talk to a professional welder who specializes in TIG welding, and get him to practice on a window frame that's already scrap.
Jon
Jon
- jpt
- New-tral
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 21 Oct 2009
I would consider the job as practically impossible.
I think that with brass only brazing or silver soldering will be suitable methods. However a butt joint will just not have the strength of an unmolested frame & I think that some form of additional strengthening around the repair area will be necessary but ugly.
I think that with brass only brazing or silver soldering will be suitable methods. However a butt joint will just not have the strength of an unmolested frame & I think that some form of additional strengthening around the repair area will be necessary but ugly.
Beware of the Illuminati
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
-
GrUmPyBoDgEr - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2340
- Joined: 29 Oct 2004
The best four Elans I ever drove or owned had electric windows. That said, for the long term, I could never own one due to the chrome basket handles, it ruins the look of the car for me, hence, the S1 fits my impractical criteria.
One regret, I sold an S4 that I shoulda kept. The window frames were one of the major reasons. In retrospect, I realize I should of cut them off, figured out a way to sleeve them back on when or if necessary....
The frames are not under stress, welding is overkill in my opinion. Perhaps a simple flat or U shaped metal plate, attached with screws on each end of the removed upper channel would be enough. My plan would be to cut them off below the top door line. Disable the switches and the window can remain in the door.
One regret, I sold an S4 that I shoulda kept. The window frames were one of the major reasons. In retrospect, I realize I should of cut them off, figured out a way to sleeve them back on when or if necessary....
The frames are not under stress, welding is overkill in my opinion. Perhaps a simple flat or U shaped metal plate, attached with screws on each end of the removed upper channel would be enough. My plan would be to cut them off below the top door line. Disable the switches and the window can remain in the door.
- 1964 S1
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1294
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
as an old composites man i had to repair a frame where the rear large trapez (lock area) broke - there?s a 1mm steel
plate now fitted and bonded on the inside with aircraft quality epoxy glue - all of the regular precautions for bonding
two parts must be followed/taken: 1. sand/rough-up both surfaces, degrease, etc......... lots of other cracked areas
can also be "cured" with prepared new "internals" --- some aceton should be available! good luck -- PS my door frame
was repaired once: in 1983 after my major restoration!
plate now fitted and bonded on the inside with aircraft quality epoxy glue - all of the regular precautions for bonding
two parts must be followed/taken: 1. sand/rough-up both surfaces, degrease, etc......... lots of other cracked areas
can also be "cured" with prepared new "internals" --- some aceton should be available! good luck -- PS my door frame
was repaired once: in 1983 after my major restoration!
- el-saturn
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1031
- Joined: 27 Jun 2012
9 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests