Oil pump removal - Plus 2 Spyder chassis

[Robbie693]

Hello,

I've not found any mention of this specifically relating to a Spyder chassis (I have read about jacking the engine up on one side) so, before I have a go at replacing my oil pump, I just wondered if there is more or less clearance with a spaceframe chassis to remove the pump, on a Plus 2?

Also, do I need to remove the filter for the pump to come out?

Finally, I changed the oil recently, is it necessary to put fresh oil in after fitting a new pump?

Cheers

Robbie

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Assuming you own that combination, you should be the best judge of the situation.
My Spyder frame has a Zetec planted into it so I can't comment on the Twincam pump clearance apart from saying that the Spyder frame provides a lot more clearance & I would expect oil pump removal to be child's play compared to the Lotus frame.
Removing the filter before will make life easier on every count.
The problem area with the Zetec is the proximity of the steeling column to the outward pointing filter, but that's another story.

Just check the oil lever after doing the job & top up as necessary.
Some may say that you can't change the oil often enough with a Twincam.

By the way, what's the reason for replacing the pump please?

Cheers & good luck
John

[ardee_selby]

Hello,

I've not found any mention of this specifically relating to a Spyder chassis (I have read about jacking the engine up on one side) so, before I have a go at replacing my oil pump, I just wondered if there is more or less clearance with a spaceframe chassis to remove the pump, on a Plus 2?

Also, do I need to remove the filter for the pump to come out?

Finally, I changed the oil recently, is it necessary to put fresh oil in after fitting a new pump?Cheers

Robbie

Can't comment on Spyder access etc. but surely it's got to be better...

I first removed the filter, on my S3, when pump was replaced. Seemed sensible at the time...in case I inverted the pump to manoeuvre it out.

WRT fresh oil? I suggest not all of it needs changing...but fill up the new filter with oil to assist with pump priming.

(Note: The pump itself should also be filled for priming. IIRC, suggestions for this have ranged from Vaseline to Graphogen...or other pet mixtures)

[Robbie693]

Thanks both,

The reason for changing is that, since I've had the car, I've only ever got about 34psi cold and 30psi hot at speed. I asked Paul Matty about this before I bought the car and they said 30psi would be ok and that the cause maybe that, as they remembered, a few years ago there was a batch of pumps that had a slightly lower relief valve setting. If true or not, I recently experienced a decreasing pressure situation during hot weather on the motorway - It dropped below 30psi at about 60mph which caused some concern. So I'm hoping that I can restore the pressure to it's book figures of 40psi with a new pump. Worth a try anyway...

Re: pump priming. I thought I would just fill the pump with oil and try and fit it without it running up my sleeve! I have some Graphogen though, would it be better to use this? Do I smear it on the rotors from the open end or do I have to dismantle it in anyway?

[bcmc33]

Thanks both,

The reason for changing is that, since I've had the car, I've only ever got about 34psi cold and 30psi hot at speed. I asked Paul Matty about this before I bought the car and they said 30psi would be ok and that the cause maybe that, as they remembered, a few years ago there was a batch of pumps that had a slightly lower relief valve setting. If true or not, I recently experienced a decreasing pressure situation during hot weather on the motorway - It dropped below 30psi at about 60mph which caused some concern. So I'm hoping that I can restore the pressure to it's book figures of 40psi with a new pump. Worth a try anyway...

Re: pump priming. I thought I would just fill the pump with oil and try and fit it without it running up my sleeve! I have some Graphogen though, would it be better to use this? Do I smear it on the rotors from the open end or do I have to dismantle it in anyway?

Robbie,
Don't be fooled by the oil pressure - its oil flow that counts.

How tight is your engine? i.e. how many miles since it was last rebuilt? A worn engine will show lower pressure.
As an example - my new engine shows 45psi with the pump from my old engine which showed 30psi. This is very understandable as the new engine has all the bearing interfaces on minimum clearance. In about 10k miles I expect the pressure to show nearer to 35psi.

Back to your original question - on my Spyder sub-framed Sprint there is no clearance issues with fitting the pump. I don't know about the +2, but on the Sprint, however, I have to "bend" the steering shaft upwards a little to make room. Lowering the engine with the engine mount released is also an option, but using a hoist to deflect the steering shaft is the easy option for me.

If you really want to try a new pump, I have one you can use to prove the point (1978 made in Birmingham vintage).

[Robbie693]

Thanks Brian - Unfortunately I bought a pump last month, just haven't gotten around to fitting it.

The engine's done about 4000 miles since it was rebuilt in the early 90's so I'd expect it to be a bit better on the pressure than it already is. I know the engine was a home build by a previous owner but I don't know how close his tolerances were. I also know that the pump has been changed since the rebuild but why I've no idea, perhaps trying to resolve the same problem

Looks like I'll be dropping the engine a bit as I have no means of bending the steering shaft, given the recent scares about Plus 2 columns cracking that's probably a good idea anyway.

Thanks again for the offer

Regards

Robbie