spyder spaceframe jacking points

[queenslandplus2]

Ladies and Gents

I have just imported my S130/4 into QLD and wish to get it mobile again after it being stood in a shed in UK for 6 years.

It has a spyder speceframe chassis and I want to jack it up and have a general nosey around but want to jack it correctly any clues?

I'd also appreciate if anybody knows it's history.

It was registered CTR62K on 6th Nov 1971

It has body number 7100000528L (which does not seem to indicate which month (00)??) and engine number P22288 which is a 681 block with non spin on oil filter.

The car has spot lights, but they are in a black plastic surround which I have seen in some press photos of the time. I imagine it was an earlier body that was modified for the spotlamps.

Obviously every car has it's own story, and though a bit different to most, is probably 'part' genuine!

I bought it in 1999 in Plymouth from a guy who had it for 8 years.

Any assistance appreciated.

Justin

Whitsundays
QLD

[stugilmour]

Hi Justin. Welcome to the list and congrats on the car.

This topic has been covered several times, so use the search function in the upper right using a few key words like 'jack' and 'block' and you will get some hits if you need more info. You can also search the site using Google. With that said, here are a few ideas I gleaned from several of the old threads, as there are several alternatives, ideas, etc....

As the car is new to you, recommend checking the integrity of the Plus 2 side rails before relying on the stock jacking points at the rockers. There are four inspection panels in the wheel well area that allow you to look in the rocker area for rust. Hopefully these were done when the Spyder frame was installed.

Caution is to not leave the rear suspension in full droop for extended periods if you still have the Rotoflexes. They will stretch out of shape and fail pre-maturely.

Jacking and supporting on the fibreglass floor is OK as long as you spread the load with a suitable plywood pad.

Basic trick is to find something thin enough to get under the car at rest, spread the load, not chip the frame paint, or crack the fibreglass. Anyway, you might have to jack up a bit in a first stage to get a trolley jack and blocks under the car where you really want it.

Jacking the front is pretty straight forward. Place jack under the centre of the cross member / vacuum tank with a suitable pad to spread the load, jack up to height required, and support on jack stands. Photo below by Neil shows a very trick solution, but a 2" x 4" will also work. If you don't have something as low profile as Neil's rail, you may have to get it off the ground in two stages. This jack stand position works for most repairs, so not a big deal.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16638375@N ... 202952079/

The trick for the rear is to fashion a 'U' shaped block to go under the central exhaust pipe and spread the jacking load to the frame sides without crushing the pipe or having to remove it. Once up, position jack stands to stabilize. Alternative positions seem to include combinations of running a rail with blocks/pads across the car ahead of the rear wheels, 12" x 12" plywood pads positioned on the rear floor, 2" x 6" across the wishbones, etc. depending on what you need access to. Be very careful not to exert a point load on the rear wishbones or the frame area where they attach. The bones will not take the full weight, and I damaged the original frame slightly with a point load on the frame, so spreading the load is key.

For sure there are some good photo's in the archives of the various blocks, but I can't seem to find them right now.

HTH Others will fill in more details I am sure.

Cheers!

[lwein]

you can jack up the Spyder Chassis under the front crossmember,which supports the front susp towers. In the rear,use the rear crossmember, or slide a jack WAYYYYY under the spine. I would not trust the plywood pad method,only because the load is taken up on the fiberglass. In any case,of course,make sure you are clear of the wishbones and the exhaust. That chassis is pretty well bullet proof--------