Original Chassis

[PeeVee]

I'm looking possibly at buying an S2 that has around 35,000 miles on it. But it has been seriously auto-crossed in a past life, dismantled, stored in a basement and reassembled. So far, I've seen pictures only. It looks very clean bit there clearly has been some tinkering. It has the original chassis with apparently no corrosion.
I know this is very subjective, but despite low miles, I'm concerned about chassis and suspension stress cracks etc. that are hard to detect. Would an original chassis detract from the asking price? Should I assume a new chassis would be required?

Thanks

Peter

[elansprint71]

35k miles in over forty years?

The chassis cost about $30 when it was new.

Check everything, believe nothing.

[Elanintheforest]

Yes!
Even if it isn't rusty, some serious track work could well have caused stress cracks in the chassis. As the car is apart, it's a good time to sort it out anyway, and a new chassis is only about ?1500 if you're in the UK.

Depending on what you're planning to do with it, check that it has all the hard-to-find S2 bits. I bought an S2 18 months ago that was missing some of these...it's a lot of fun finding them on eBay! Much of the door and side glass bits and pieces are now being re-made, so you shouldn't get stuck for much.

If you need a list of what to look out for, just shout...there will be a few of us with a lot of ideas of what's important! All helps to figure out what the car is worth.

Mark

[PeeVee]

Thanks Mark. I live in Canada so cost would be much more after shipping. Anyway, the car has been reassembled for some years now, although it was a long time apart. As I said, it has been tinkered with, but the local Lotus specialist did say it was basically a solid car.
Just read Gord Lund's excellent book to see what I could be getting into. (I notice he lost a lot of hair during the restoration process.) The book did indicate what troubles could be lurking - potentially many.
I'm still mulling things over.

Peter

[twincamman]

welllll its only mild steel in the chassis ---so you can easily repair any cracks and or failings -----mine was a racer and was abandon for 30 years and required a bit of repair on the brige [from an attempt to install a v 8 ] but if the welding is done correctly it is as strong or stronger --where in Canada are you??--ed

[cabc26b]

If the chassis is original ( numbered to the car) and rust free its worth trying to keep. Rust free original chassis, world wide, are rare. I thik in the UK the assumption is that in 99% of the cases the chassis is junk so, figure on replacement. Here in North America esp the dryer climates, you can find low mile crs that were moth balled in the 70s& 80's with rust free chassis.

If you buy the car, clean the chassis ( media blast) inspect it and see what you have. then make your decision -

George

[gwnorth68]

I agree with George. It's only mild steel so if it isn't rusted away any cracks can be welded (MIG, Tig or braze) and weak areas gusseted. Perhaps more difficult is to evaluate frame straightness: checking dimensionally against the frame diagram in the manual for some key dimensions would be a good plan.
Where in Canada are you?

[Elanintheforest]

I may have jumped the gun here Peter. Autocrossing in England is like a mini-Rally around a tarmac / off road circuit, which usually wrecks cars after a couple of races. I think the US version is a more gentle in and out of cones on tarmac only...in which case ignore my previous comments!

George is right though, we tend to be twitchy about rusty chassis in the UK with our damp climate...I changed quite a few in the 70s when the cars were between 5 and 10 years old. But I have a S4 which has it's original chassis, and it looks absolutely fine. So there are exceptions, even over here. As the others have said, check it out. But if it is duff, it's not a deal breaker, just something else to negotiate.

Mark

[RotoFlexible]

I may have jumped the gun here Peter. Autocrossing in England is like a mini-Rally around a tarmac / off road circuit, which usually wrecks cars after a couple of races. I think the US version is a more gentle in and out of cones on tarmac only...in which case ignore my previous comments!

Basically correct, but for folks who do it seriously, "gentle" isn't the word that comes to mind. "Autocross" can also refer to timed events on an open road course. In either case, the car is subjected to all the G forces the tires can muster, but not beaten to death over a rough road.

As a point of reference, my S2 had a new Lotus-supplied frame in the early '70's - by that time they were coating them with a tarry undercoating material. It survived 35 years in New England (damp, salt) and both kinds of autocrossing without corrosion or cracking. When we took the frame out last year, Gary Anderson pronounced it fit. I had it chemically stripped, reinforced it, painted it and put it back in the car for another 35 years.

[trw99]

It's interesting that there is a perception that 'most' Elans will by now have had a chassis change. And yet...I keep hearing of or reading about Elans that are still on their original chassis.

If like Mark and me originality scores highly, then an Elan with an original (safe) chassis is to be cherished. I quite understand the counter point of view and have no beef with an Elan with a replacement chassis.

It would be interesting though, to see how many lister's cars are still on their original chassis. Shall we start a survey?

Tim

[twincamman]

oh lets - --ed

[gjz30075]

If like Mark and me originality scores highly, then an Elan with an original (safe) chassis is to be cherished.

Agreed! Original chassis here.

Greg Z
'72 Sprint

PS: We should probably start a new thread on this....

[tdafforn]

my '73 +2 is original
Tim

[tcsoar]

My '69 +2 is non original . Mind you the original steering mounts and suspension turrets looked as though Father Ted had tried to beat them into shape with his small hammer.

Chris.

[kenb]

Peter,
Which side of Canada?If its the left I may have some "bits".
Ken
'64 S1 wannabe racecar.