Tandem Master Cylinder Reservoir

[Gorpon73]

Hello,

Does anyone possibly know what black magic is required to remove the reservoir from the tandem brake master cylinder body?? Specifically, not the screwed on connection by above primary cylinder, here I mean the connection on the far end from the shaft....

Is this possible to remove it (and reattach it) without destroying in?

Thx, DJS

[nmauduit]

Some infos are probably on the forum, see for instance

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=35509&start=30

a strong pull should do the trick ... with a level of risk depending on the brittleness acquired by the reservoir.

good luck !

[Gorpon73]

Thanks nmauduit, this was helpful.

Mine is a little bit older and when I twist it to pop it out the plastic is stretching to the breaking point. Was wondering if there was a gentler method of removal so I don't break the supply reservoir.

I've had everything apart and rebuilt the MC twice and I still can't get that end chamber to pump. The primary chamber works great. That end of the reservoir outlet is the only thing I haven't had apart and I'm wondering if it's leaking from that junction....

[2cams70]

Unless there is a leak externally from where the reservoir enters the cylinder best to leave as is. There's no need to remove it.

[Gorpon73]

Yup. It's staying where it is. No leaks from that area.

I've ensured it is not obstructed with a tiny wire brush.

Just cant get it to bleed...even on the bench....

[Bobzilla]

I have 2 questions:
1. I assume the nut holding the tipping valve is normal threaded.
I had soaked it overnight but can't get it to break free.
I even used an impact wrench

2. Is there supposed to be a paper gasket under the resivoir tank?

Thanks

[2cams70]

There's supposed to be a large square profile O ring sitting in a groove that seals that part of reservoir to the cylinder. OMG someone here has decided to slop a bit of silicone around in that area. Seriously guys what I see and hear on this forum sometimes makes me glad I'm not in the market for a Lotus Elan.

The tipping valve hex plug should normally come out without issue. The torque spec. is 35 to 45 ft/lb. It should come out using a normal hex key or hex key socket. Using an impact tool is violence. It should not be necessary to use violence. A hand tool will give you feel that a power tool won't.

Be careful using releasing fluid around brake components. Releasing fluid is mineral oil. Don't get mineral oil anywhere near rubber brake components. In my experience releasing fluid only has around a 30% success rate anyway. It can help a bit after the first crack of things moving but before that happens the effect of it is a bit hit and miss.

Keep trying with a well fitting socket hex tool is my advice. Make sure it's well fitting because if it slips and things round off you're done for. I can share a few pages out of the manual if it helps. Allow me a few days to upload though because I'm quite busy at the moment.