Wobbly handbrake tree

[JonB]

Hi

While mucking about under the car I noticed the handbrake "tree" was a bit wobbly. The rods actually catch against one of the doughnuts unless the handbrake is fully disengaged. I couldn't see how the tree is fixed - is it just sat on a vertical shaft with no fastener?

I'm aware if the Sue Miller parts, by the way, but not sure I need to spend due north of ?100 to address this issue. My handbrake "sort of" works, and did pass an MOT last year.

Cheers
JonB

[john.p.clegg]

Jon

10 to 13 in the diagram...

http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/JF_-_Brak ... brake_%2B2

John

[JonB]

So do I take it the tree screws into the post?

[Bigbaldybloke]

Hi, the tree screws onto the post and should swing freely side to side but not forward and backwards. The side to side is to compensate for pads worn more on one wheel than the other, but basically should be vertical if everything is set up correctly.

Cheers
Simon

[JonB]

I'm guessing that mine isn't screwed in, then. I'll have a look later on.

Grr, bodgers!

[JonB]

Looking at the diagram, I take it that the tree is free to rock from left to right as it appears to be mounted on a horizontal bolt? This would allow it to equalise braking force on the two rear discs.

[RogerFrench]

Looking at the diagram, I take it that the tree is free to rock from left to right as it appears to be mounted on a horizontal bolt? This would allow it to equalise braking force on the two rear discs.

Exactly.

[alan.barker]

I think some owners have made the tie bars to operate pads adjustable in length. This means when the handbrake is off the arm connected to the cable is back as far as possible.
Alan

[JonB]

OK, while we are on the subject of the handbrake, I am having real difficulty adjusting my handbrake warning switch. It acts like it's got an intermittent connection (light flickering or off) yet when I short the feed to earth the light is on solid. The switch works too, I have tested it with a multimeter. It looks like it has a very short actuating shaft but it's the same as a new one I saw on eBay. The only other thing I can think of is the ground, it is connected to the neck of the switch, so goes via the handbrake mechanism itself. I suppose this is not a valid ground point.. no?

[alan.barker]

The warning light for the handbrake is also for brake failure which is actuated from the brake master cylinder cap.
Alan

[MarkDa]

Handbrake adjustment is 'fun', start at the outside and get the pad clearance right making sure that the retention arms pull the pads back on release. Then you can adjust cable outer to take up slack.
As mentioned sometimes you still don't get the tree far enough back to get enough travel in which case pull rods might need shortening. I did this by drilling new holes in the U on the end - adjustable rods are available.
Lots of threads on the forum with pictures of what to do.

You will need a positive earth for the switch rather than relying on a return through the mechanism.

[JonB]

Yep, was the earth. Now working correctly - I haven't adjusted the handbrake mechanism itself as it is "sort of" OK. I always leave it in gear when parked, just to be safe. Will look again at this when I sort the tree thingie out.

[RichC]

the horizontal bolt in the handbrake tree is the key .... It's in a really awkward position and i found that by tightening it up a few turns (& usinga nyloc nut ) it took all the wobble out of mine and it transformed the handbrake performance. Really worth persevering with tightening horizontal bolt as much as you can
Rich

[JonB]

Top tip, Rich, thanks!

[john.p.clegg]

Jon
If you don't mind a bodge a M6 roofing bolt with a roofing type square nut is "self -held" in place and easy access is via the boot....

5th post down...

lotus-gearbox-f37/lotus-speed-gearbox-t19761-15.html

John