Handbrake pull rods

[oldelanman]

The LH handbrake pull rod on my car fouls the rear chassis brace tube is this typical ? I do have a new chassis but I had the same problem on the old one and fitted a rubber sleeve on the rod to stop it rattling. I could put a crank in it to give a bit of clearance but should that be necessary ? What does the team think ?

[alan.barker]

sorry to say this Roger, i know it's off subject but i think 3 of the doughnut bolts are assembled the wrong way.
For the doughtnuts next to the diff, 3 bolts one direction , 3 bolts opposite direction
Alan B

[oldelanman]

sorry to say this Roger, i know it's off subject but i think 3 of the doughnut bolts are assembled the wrong way.
For the doughtnuts next to the diff, 3 bolts one direction , 3 bolts opposite direction
Alan B

Oops well spotted Alan. I thought I was getting on a bit too well. I did look in Brian Buckland's book where he said "All heads should face outwards" but I think he was just referring to the outer doughnut - should have checked the W/S manual ! Does this look better.......

Thanks again

Any thoughts on the handbrake rod ?

[alan.barker]

thanks Roger,
well at least now we can get back to your real problem
Alan B

[Yum-yum]

I don't know if this helps, I just had a look at mine (happened to drive it into work today) and it is the same as yours. It bears against the frame strut with a little preload. It probably is a source of rattle but I'm not sure I ever heard it. I also had it disconnected and out of the car for a long period, only got around to refitting it and the rest of the parking brake system earlier this year.

[oldelanman]

Thanks for the pic Yum-yum, looks like mine is not unusual then. It doesn't affect the function of the handbrake and if it does rattle I will sleeve it again as I did before.
Thanks again.
Regards,

[types26/36]

Had a quick look at the rods on my S2 and they look OK

[oldelanman]

Thanks Brian,
That's two out of three touching so far. Maybe mine will clear once the linkage is adjusted and the car is on the floor.

Regards,

[types26/36]

............and now the Sprints rods

[Yum-yum]

Interesting. It is obviously better if the linkage rods are not contacting the frame. I'll have to take a look and see if mine can be adjusted out. As I said I reinstalled it not too long ago, I thought I had it right but its possible it is not.
The "branches" on the "tree" that pivots to pull the rods swing through an arc. At the widest of the swing the rod should come closest to the frame. Does anyone have a picture of the relaxed resting angle of the branches with respect to the frame? I'm pretty sure the outboard ends of the pull rods are connected correctly at the calipers. BTW, my parking brake works fine and is adjusted per the book.

[512BB]

Roger,
That has probably occured because you have assembled the hand brake tree incorrectly. It should be slightly further forward towards the front of the car, but you have assembled the little spacer on the wrong side of the tree, making it sit further back. And as an aside, your rear A frame bolt is in the chassis the wrong way round. Both those inner A frame bolts, the heads should face each other.

Leslie

[UAB807F]

Thanks Brian,
That's two out of three touching so far. Maybe mine will clear once the linkage is adjusted and the car is on the floor.

Regards,

I'll even the odds again then Roger . I checked mine after reading the thread this morning and there's probably half an inch of clearance between the rod & chassis. Ok, it's a homemade assembly but the tree dimensions are the same as the OEM Lotus tree, the only difference being metal thickness & adjustable links which let you move the start position of the tree & lever to get the best option. I do remember the days of fiddling about with the original one to get the handbrake through the MoT but I don't ever recall the links rubbing on the chassis.

Brian

[Yum-yum]

512BB, that would explain it on my car, that the base of the tree is installed wrong. Thank you.

Oldelanman, sorry for the misinformation via photo that I supplied.

[oldelanman]

That has probably occured because you have assembled the hand brake tree incorrectly. It should be slightly further forward towards the front of the car, but you have assembled the little spacer on the wrong side of the tree, making it sit further back.

Hi Leslie,
That's interesting. The W/S manual shows the spacer to the front and if I assemble it with the spacer to the rear the forward arm fouls the diff. I don't know how accurate the drawing is but it shows the vertical pivot bolt welded at one end of the cross tube - mine is welded nearer the centre which puts it slightly further back (or forward if I assemble it as you suggest). Maybe that's what the problem is.

And as an aside, your rear A frame bolt is in the chassis the wrong way round. Both those inner A frame bolts, the heads should face each other.

Why does it matter which way round the rear bolt is fitted? It's just the front bolt that can't be removed if you fit it the wrong way round but that doesn't apply to the rear one -or am I missing something obvious ? I can turn it round if necessary the bolts are not torqued up yet anyway.

Best regards,

[types26/36]

[quote="oldelanman"]
Why does it matter which way round the rear bolt is fitted? It's just the front bolt that can't be removed if you fit it the wrong way round but that doesn't apply to the rear one -or am I missing something obvious ? quote]


I agree,that is the way I fitted my rear bolts ....nuts to the inside I cannot see it makes any difference on the rear bolts, to me it is more aesthetically pleasing and the threaded part of the bolt is not stuck out to get rusted ........although I know I?m just fooling myself there