Help on Elan calipers

[tyasman]

I am about to service the front calipers on my 1970 Elan S4. So that I can purchase new seals locally can anyone please advise on which type of caliper is fitted, assuming they are the originals.
Thanks for any answers.

[paddy]

Hi,

They will be Girling type 14LF, as oriignally fitted either or the Triumph Herald/Spitfires of the same year or some Cortinas (depending on whether the hose is top-entry or side-entry). However the seal kit will be the same irrespective of the hose position.

Watch out because some very early Heralds had type 12 and some Cortinas has type 16.

Any of the usual Lotus suppliers or a Triumph specialist such as Rimmer will be able to point you in the right direction.

Paddy

[gerrym]

Tyasman, if you are stripping down the calipers to service, you may (probably) will find some corrosion on the pistons.

If I was rebuilding my calipers with new seals, I'd also replace the pistons whilst I was at it. Also it's not a bad idea to replace the bleed screws. This will minimise chance of them being corroded stuck in the future.

As per previous post, any of the better Triumph specialists can provide the parts.

Regards

[Frank Howard]

...it's not a bad idea to replace the bleed screws. This will minimise chance of them being corroded stuck in the future.

As an alternative, cleaning the threads with a wire wheel and then smearing on a dab of anti-sieze will accomplish the same thing. I'd use the anti-sieze even if I were using new bleed screws. Good luck.

[pamitchell]

You might consider replacing the bleeders with Speed Bleeders that allow1 man brake bleeding.
I sourced mine from Summit Racing They are made by RUSSELL size 3/8-24. I believe their part no is 639590.
Phil

[prezoom]

I installed Speed Bleeders last year and they are one of the best investments I have made. They are available direct from www.speedbleeder.com and you want part number SB3824L. Had them installed on the race car first and wouldn't be without them.

Hang the bleed bottle with a loop in the tube above the caliper. Make sure the tube end in the bottle is submerged in some old brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle. Pump a couple of times, and when there is no air bubble at the top of the loop, or in the tube, you're done. But, constantly check the fluid level in the reservoir, and keep it topped up. After bleeding the first caliper you will get the feel for the number of pumps, etc. Can bleed all four brakes in about 10 minutes, by yourself.

Rob Walker
26-4889

[neilsjuke]

Classicar Automotive do a great job you wont be able to by all the parts for what they charge and then they come back as new

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/elan-f14/best-buy-refurbished-calipers-from-classicar-automotive-t15754.html

Neil

[gerrym]

Frank your comment re the anti-seize has me thinking... usually anti-seize is copper-slip. Not sure whether the copper-slip base is hydrocarbon and if so, is it compatible with the caliper seals. Do you use a different anti-sieze which is cpompatible with the brake system elastomers? Myself, I only use brake fluid or red rubber grease anywhere near the brake system.
Regards

[gerrym]

Frank your comment re the anti-seize has me thinking... usually anti-seize is copper-slip. Not sure whether the copper-slip base is hydrocarbon and if so, is it compatible with the caliper seals. Do you use a different anti-sieze which is compatible with the brake system elastomers? Myself, I only use brake fluid or red rubber grease anywhere near the brake system.
Regards

[Frank Howard]

Gerry,

To answer your question, I use any anti-sieze that is on my workbench. Right now I have a plastic bottle of Permatex Anti-Sieze Lubricant. I doubt it has any copper in it because it is gray in color. Regardless as to what's in it, I'm not concerned about compatability issues with the seals for three reasons.

1. I apply it to the threads, not the end of the screw where it seals.
2. Even if I were to inadvertantly get some on the end, the process of bleeding the brakes flushes brake fluid and any remaining anti-sieze past the end of the bleeder screw and out of the caliper.
3. Even if I were to inadvertantly get some on the end and despite bleeding the brakes some of it remained in the system, it would be such a minute amount, I can't believe it would lead to seal or brake failure.

Oh, and one more thing. I'm a big fan of Craig Ferguson!

[gerrym]

Frank, thanks for reply. Detail is everything. A bit of PTFE tape is also good - reduces area that can corrode. A cycle box spanner with a nice tight fitting hex, not bi-hex like a ring spanner, is also good for getting the bleed nipples loosened.

Thumbs up for Craig

[billwill]

Classicar Automotive do a great job you wont be able to by all the parts for what they charge and then they come back as new

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/elan-f14/best-buy-refurbished-calipers-from-classicar-automotive-t15754.html

Neil

Be sure to CHASE them for the return of your deposit on your old calipers though. They forgot to do my refund once and I forgot to chase it until it was far too late really, so I did not get my refund money back.

[khamai]

Just a reminder to all...

The Golden Gate Lotus Club maintains a Parts Cross Reference. The reference for Elan parts can be found at:
http://gglotus.org/ggpart/elanxref.htm

Please feel free to share any parts cross reference and we will add or revise the listing.

Cheers,
Kiyoshi
GGLC Webguy
webguy"at"gglotus.org

[dlbutler]

Don't forget the seal between the Caliper halves. It will leak at some point in the future.
I use the red Rubber Grease on the Bleeder Screw, but mostly because it is open from inserting the Pistons.

Don