Loosening seized rear caliper bleed nipples -

[James]

I'm working on a 70 Plus 2 that's been sitting for years. I've tried using some heat and tapping the nipples while applying torque but no positive results. My buddies in the local Lotus Club (of British Columbia) often resort to drilling them out and inserting a new unit with a smaller nipple inside a larger insert. I'd really like to avoid that. Does anybody have any brilliant ideas? I realize there is probably no Eureka fix for this, but I thought it was worth the try. Until the Paralympics get started I've got some time to work on this. As you may have noticed, spring is pretty much here already.

[rgh0]

Try more heat cycles and more torque and more tapping. Eventually you move it in 90% of cases. If still does not move and you shear it off the good news have a nice central hole in it. Carefully drill it out and try an ezyout. If it still does not move drill it carefully until the threads collapse and you can remove the residue.

In the end I guess you could fit a helicoil but I have never got that far.

Easier to do all this at bench height in a vice

cheers
Rohan

[Frank Howard]

One piece of advice I can add is to avoid the use of a spanner (open end wrench). Instead, use a 14" drive socket. Also, a 1/4" breaker bar works better than a ratchet. You can easily tap on it while applying torque. Let us know how it "comes out" (one piece or two).

Really enjoyed watching the Olympics. Good job James.

[stugilmour]

James:

An alternative might be Loctite Freeze and Release.

Here is a descriptive link if you are unfamiliar with the product. Worked great for me with some nasty exhaust manifold studs.

http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/


I understand Rohan has used this product for other applications as well, but I see he recommended heat in this application, so I may be missing something regarding the brake calipers.

Great job on the Olympics. Originally from Vancouver with lots of friends & family down there still. City & Whistler looked great, and you folks really handled the weather setbacks well. We had similar issues here in `88, so know very well how much effort it takes from the volunteer side to move tons of snow into place to pull things off. Best wishes as well to London for their upcoming show!

[nebogipfel]

Obviously you have to be careful applying heat to the caliper but I have found that getting the nipple as hot as you dare will work in nine out of ten cases

[freddy22112211]

Almost the same problem - but with the brake line connections on the caliper. Freeze or heat in this case too? I have cans of 'freeze' for electronics - perhaps they are similar.
Gordon

[garyeanderson]

I've saved some rusty calipers over the years (broke some bleeders too) and my cut at this is:

If is a rear caliper, disassemble completely. Remove pistons and toss them and all rubber bits too, Now Split the caliper in half and remove the square section O-ring (save this part and keep it safe) and get some REAL heat, propane is not going to do it. Oxyacetylene with a rosebud tip and heat the half with the bleeder CHERRY red and try a 6 point 7/16 deep socket on a breaker bar or T handle. Try tightening first and then loosen, not real hard but enough to put pressure on the bleeder. Let it cool if it doesn't free up.
Then Re-HEAT the caliper half area where the bleeder is again to the same CHERRY red and loosen LEFT this time.

If the brake line is frozen, CUT the line and perform the same ON THE BENCH where you can work on it and see what you are doing.

Fronts are more or less the same but they are more common so I am not usually as concerned. It used to be you could find Plus 2's for donors but it seems that folks are starting to appreciate them now that so many have been parted out and converted to Zetec...

[rgh0]

Yes - I should have been more specific by "heat cycles" I meant heating with a gas torch around the bleed nipple and then cooling the nipple itself with loctite freeze and release ( or even just a squirt of cold water into the nipple).

The caliper can take a fair amount of local heating around the bleed nipple but wise to dismantle and remove the rubbers if getting agressive with it.


cheers
Rohan

[pereirac]

I sheared the bleed nipple on my rear caliper last year, using an Easyout seemed to make things words as the metal is quite soft and just expands as the screw remover goes in which just seemed to make it tighter...
A local engineering shop charged me ?25 to remove the broken nipple without damaging the caliper - the safest (and cheapest bet)

Carl

[gerrym]

Gary, re your comment about saving/keeping the internal square section seal which seals the drilling between the two halves of the rear brake caliper, these are avialble new in the UK. PowerTrack supplied them to me.

Regards

Gerry

[garyeanderson]

Gary, re your comment about saving/keeping the internal square section seal which seals the drilling between the two halves of the rear brake caliper, these are avialble new in the UK. PowerTrack supplied them to me.

Regards

Gerry

Yes I have gotten the internal caliper half crossover seals from Dave Bean in the past under part number 007 J 4908. The point I was making was they don't go bad as they do not ware out. They only go bad when you don't split the calipers and remove before heating to a "CHERRY red".


Carl

You are correct that you can drill and save the caliper but it is far easier to do the job right with the right tool. An Oxyacetylene is the "right Tool" for the job. If you need to use more than 10 to 15 foot pounds of torque to loosen a bleeder, STOP. Take the caliper apart and use the correct tool. If you don't have it, the bring the caliper to some one that does.

All
The original question was about a caliper that had been sitting for "Years" and to me, that means rust. Heat is the tool that fixes a rusty bleeder. Most times Cherry red is not required but its the Safe way to do the job so you don't have a bad day when the bleeder snaps. Like I said I have broken them when I didn't know. Now that I do there is no excuse to snap them. Now you all know too, and if you listen you won't snap them either. Been there done that quite a few times. I have also had calipers that had the bleeders snapped when I dis-assembled. Same procedure with splitting the caliper and the cherry red heat and drove in the easi-out and removed but it took the "heat" to allow the easy-out to be effective without breaking it off and really ruining the day.

Some folks give advise freely and all to often it's not the right advise. If I don't think what I have to offer is important I don't say anything. If I don't know, I don't say. Being right half of the time is the same as being wrong the other half. I don't like being wrong but it happens, but I try to limit that to a minimum.

Gary

[Frank Howard]

James,

Jumping ahead a bit, once one of my bleeder screws is removed, I never experience any difficulty removing it again and here's why.

1. The threads are cleaned on the wire wheel.
2. Anti-sieze is applied.
3. The brakes are bled every 24 months.

Here's hoping yours comes out in one piece.

[freddy22112211]

I'm gonna add my little bit yet again! If a caliper has been sitting for years I can understand it. In my case the bleed screws are used every couple of years, they don't have time to rust! But the brake line connections haven't been touched for 38 years - so I guess I need to take the calipers apart! I'll try the cold spray first though. Problem with the brake line connections is getting a good spanner on them (without cutting the lines first). Best I have done is saw a slit in a good spanner so that the brake line will pass through - but the spanner then gives a little I think. The other brake line connections are just as solid.
Gordon

[Frank Howard]

Best I have done is saw a slit in a good spanner so that the brake line will pass through - but the spanner then gives a little I think.

Gordon,

There is a tool available designed specifically for this application where the manufacturer has done just that. The brake pipe wrench is basically a boxed end (closed) wrench where some if it is missing allowing you to pass the brake line through and apply torque to 5 of the 6 flats.

[garyeanderson]

I don't know much about "freeze" spray but Heat works, go buy some tools. You need a brake line wrench. they are usually a 3/8" x 7/16" and it will serve you well. Buy a good one, cheap ones are just about as you said a box wrench with a 1/4 inch slit and will spread and be useless. They look like this

this is a no name wrench and is of questionable use when working of rusted parts. if you have to spend 30 what ever currency yuou use, do it. A good tool will last a life time.


another cheap wrench


THis one has some meat to it so it won't spread open when you put some torque on it.

again some meat where you need it.


Gary