Elan handbrake

PostPost by: tyasman » Fri Apr 10, 2009 6:51 am

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make the handbrake on a '70 S4 actually work? I know they never were any good, but I'm getting perilously close to failing my MOT next time round. My present tester is "sympathetic" but I'm worried I get a "jobsworth" next time. Thanks for replies.
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PostPost by: miked » Fri Apr 10, 2009 7:52 am

For starters;

Are the mechanisms clean and able to move. Have you disconnected and cleaned to ensure everything can move freely. Are the pads OK (not worn out)?Are they adjusted correctly. Is the main cable free and adjusted right? See manual for settings.

They really do work fine when set right. Not being funny but you should be able to get them to work with some time invested in some cleaning and setting. To be fair to the MOT guy, you should have a working hand brake. These guys are on a hiding to nothing these day and can get I trouble quite easy.

Mike :)

PS I am not an MOT man.
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PostPost by: tyasman » Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:21 am

Mike
Thanks, I haven't looked in the hanbook, I'll check settings, everything else, cables, pads etc. seems OK.
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PostPost by: worzel » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:31 am

Hi

I'd second Mike's comments. They do work- in fact Rolls used a similar system on a 70's model but with much larger pads. A casual acquaintance (wh happened to work for Girling at the time) had these calipers on his sprint and he could lock the rears at 30 on a dry road!

Loads of info on how to get these to work properly on the forum so I won't repeat it but if your current pads are wearing thin don't buy the std replacements- take the backing plates to a local brake specialist and have them bond on the softest linings available. Should cost around ?20- and they'll work better.

John
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PostPost by: 512BB » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:39 am

Simon,

Ditto all of the above, plus, if your handbrake cable has been on the car for yonks, they do stretch over time. A friend of mine from years ago who had an Elan, Gav has his car now, used to tie a knot in the cable to save replacing it. Worked well until the MOT guy noticed it, FAILED!
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:53 am

1) dont forget the centralising strips
2)before you go for the MOT wind in the adjusters so the wheels are near locking and then back off one half turn

John :wink:
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:52 pm

Mine has always required a lot of effort to operate, until I sprayed some WD40 on tree and really worked it in, now its great. Still hard to reach with the seat belts on, but effective. Dan
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PostPost by: elanman999 » Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:17 pm

All of the above plus:-
1 the disks need to be running pretty true, better then .004"
2 the pull rods need to be arrow straight otherwise when the brake is applied motion is lost in straightening them.
Cheers
John
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PostPost by: HardTop » Wed Apr 15, 2009 3:16 pm

The springs within the calipers must be absolutly perfect ( well nearly) for the hand brake to work well.
Try replacing yours, inexpensive and easy to execute the replacement
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