Handbrake...... MOT test

PostPost by: elansprint71 » Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:26 pm

How is it that the sodding handbrake can work fine until just before the MoT test? Somehow mine has developed half an inch of slack in the cable in the last couple of months- that's probably only 200 miles, as I've been otherwise engaged. :evil:
I've adjusted it tonight and, once again, I can lock both wheels at 30 mph..... but for how long?
Is the outer cable "pinch bolt" shown in the photo really the best that Colin Crapman could come up with, or has this abomination been added by some DPO? Of course there is no diagram in the owners manual showing it and I can't find a mention even in the Buckland Bible.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:24 am

Looks like it may have slipped,mine is a propper swaged/soldered nipple,although I do believe lots of people think the cable is far too long and it's a common mod...


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PostPost by: mark030358 » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:02 am

Pete,
I have the same pinch bolt on my elan. Never modified.

cheers
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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:42 am

So that's how it's supposed to look ! Mine's too covered in crud to tell. I think it's the crud that stops it slipping.........
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PostPost by: peterako » Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:43 am

No pinch bolt on my '73 +2.

Loads of slack, but handbrake functions fine on our steep driveway.

You can lock the wheels at 30mph :shock:

May have to look at putting a pinck bolt in :)

Best of luck with the MOT.

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PostPost by: trw99 » Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:20 am

Pete

There's an article by Brian Buckland in the latest Club Lotus news on just how to fix the handbrake good and proper. Let me know if you want a scanned copy (copyright acknowledged etc).

Tim
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:56 pm

trw99 wrote:Pete

There's an article by Brian Buckland in the latest Club Lotus news on just how to fix the handbrake good and proper. Let me know if you want a scanned copy (copyright acknowledged etc).

Tim


Strangely he fails to mention the pad-lifters, which (in my opinion) it is important to bend out slightly each time a ne set of bads are fitted, because they are not spring steel and take a permanent set inwards as the pads wear down, so they would not then lift-off new pads.
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:54 pm

Took it in today, passed no probs. When I pulled on the handbrake on the rollers, the tester said "Jesus", it went much further up the scale than the foot-brake! :lol:
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PostPost by: jkatthehelm » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:06 pm

"Is the outer cable "pinch bolt" shown in the photo really the best that Colin Crapman could come up with, or has this abomination been added by some DPO?"


Can't see ACBC having taken a very close interest in the handbrake... :lol:
66 Elan fhc, 72 Elan Plus 2S 130/5, 98 Elise 2.0l Duratec
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:33 pm

Just took another look at the pic,and yes,isn't this locking the outer cable in the engine bay? Shouldn't there be a screwed adjuster?

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 2:30 pm

Pete, my Sprints handbrake cable appears a little different to yours, there are two nuts on the end, one is above the outer cable and the other is above the sliding part of the handbrake.
I have always used the top one to lubricate the handbrake with a few drops of oil.
The lower one (above the outer cable) does not have a "clamping bolt" in it. As far as I know its original although I suppose if it ever had a bolt to clamp the outer cable it could have dropped out.
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:41 pm

Brain,
That's interesting; I wonder if mine is the same as yours but has pulled through the "firewall" ( :D :D :D ) ? I rummage around over the w/e.

Cleggie, is there a screwed adjuster on the +2? On the +0 it's at the other end of the outer cable, requiring "the mechanic" to scrabble about under the car to adjust; an adjuster at the top end would make much more sense.


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Pete.
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:16 pm

[quote="elansprint71"]Brain,
That's interesting; I wonder if mine is the same as yours but has pulled through the "firewall" quote]

..............Which would explain why you are getting "slack" in the cable and needing adjusting frequently.....
:lol: :lol: Brain! Brain !:lol: ....well if the cap fits..............
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:28 pm

elansprint71 wrote:Cleggie, is there a screwed adjuster on the +2? On the +0 it's at the other end of the outer cable, requiring "the mechanic" to scrabble about under the car to adjust; an adjuster at the top end would make much more sense.


The +2 has a threaded adjustment at the front end. The chassis has a welded-in threaded boss which accepts the similarly threaded end fitting of the cable housing.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:47 pm

Hi Guys,
I had to shorten the cable I bought from Susan Millar as it was too long and resulted in a lot of slack even with the adjuster at the front screwed all the way out. I made up a solderless nipple out of a stainless bolt using my lathe and just cut the nylon lined cable where I wanted (screw in the adjuster all the way 1st), fitted the said doitwith and secured it to the cable using 2 x 4mm dia grub screws (remember them :lol: ) then set the pads. What a difference that made!

If you need to shorten the cable but dont want a solderless clamp on type nipple then nip along with your cable cut to length to your local boat chandlers / marina. They will swage on a new end for you. :)

Susan M recon's they are all made too long. Does not know why either. Beats me, but can be sorted easy enough.

Alex B... 8)
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