Plus 2 rear brake advice

PostPost by: MarkDa » Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:52 pm

You may get it built up enough to convince yourself that this end has enough original casting to prevent movement when both bolts are in place.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:00 pm

Maybe he will say it's possible with hard brazing but it looks risky for a vital brake part.
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PostPost by: Andiken » Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:24 pm

My thoughts exactly, I'm going to get the assessment from a coded welder just for the sake of being thorough. Then the search will commence for a replacement....
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PostPost by: patrics » Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:50 pm

Hi Andy
I think I could get that repaired but not sure about the cost and no guarantee of success- it would be easier to try and find another one.
There are bound to be other people with broken callipers
How about Spyder, they must have sold loads

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Steve
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Wed Jan 17, 2018 3:23 am

I'd repair it.

The shop I worked in back in the 70s would have brazed it up and the customer would have been notified, but finding one back then wouldn't have been easy either. We didn't have the space to store a customer's car while ordering in a new replacement. We might have repaired the cracked one and recommended the owner order a new replacement. Perhaps my judgement is colored by the fact that not that long ago, people drove these cars everyday. I do remember a Diamler SP250 that occupied our shop for months because the replacement differential the owner supplied didn't work. Remember, there is a lot less than 50% of the braking from the rear calipers. When I got my first Elans in '74 and then '78, the rear calipers were either fully frozen or partially frozen, and I drove them that way for a while, because the brakes were actually pretty good compared to other cars I drove at the time as a poor engineering student.

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PostPost by: ncm » Wed Jan 17, 2018 9:39 pm

Hi Andy, I might be able to help you with this. I have a caliper where a DPO has stripped out the thread in one of the caliper half retaining bolt holes and replaced it with some form of threadlock... :shock: :shock: however the side that you have broken has all it's threads intact. If you would be interested in this I will dig it out and take pictures for you as there is wear in both the pad retaining holes and the area that the pad sits on.

Cheers, Brian.
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PostPost by: Andiken » Wed Jan 17, 2018 9:43 pm

Hi Brian, that'd be really useful thanks. I'd be grateful if you could take some photos for me. Much appreciated!

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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:24 am

Hi

Costly but I would start looking for a replacement. How would a repair stand up in an MOT?

I would never be sure of the consequence's

Good luck on your solution
John

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PostPost by: ncm » Thu Jan 18, 2018 3:49 pm

Hi Andy, Pictures as promised:-
Attachments
p1180242.jpg and
p1180241.jpg and
p1180244.jpg and
p1180251.jpg and
p1180253.jpg and
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Thu Jan 18, 2018 4:26 pm

Hawksfield wrote:Hi

Costly but I would start looking for a replacement. How would a repair stand up in an MOT?

I would never be sure of the consequence's

Good luck on your solution


I think for the MOT once the Caliper has been painted the MOT centre would probably say i see you have fitted a new Caliper :lol: very nice
Alan
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