Handbrake pull rods

[oldelanman]

I agree,that is the way I fitted my rear bolts ....nuts to the inside I cannot see it makes any difference on the rear bolts, to me it is more aesthetically pleasing and the threaded part of the bolt is not stuck out to get rusted ........although I know I?m just fooling myself there

Thanks Brian, glad I,m not the only one

Back to the topic......
Just found a picture of a new compensator tree in Brian Buckland's book and it looks identical to mine with the pivot bolt welded in the centre of the tube. So the drawing in the manual is misleading and that's not the cause of my problem. He also states that the spacer goes to the front to move the compensator rearwards "or the rod arms will hit the differential" which is what I found as well. Checking mine again I find that the rod does move slightly away from the chassis (about 5mm) when the brake is applied - it only fouls when the brake is fully off and the compensator arm is at right angles to the rod. All-in-all I think I will leave well alone and just sleeve the rod if it rattles while driving as I did before.
Now to get on with the rest of the outstanding jobs.....

Thanks all for your input.

Regards,

[512BB]

Re the rods, of course it can makes a difference if you have an original tree or a replacement, and where the threaded part is soldered to the tube. On a car that I have recently been working on, I needed to place the spacer to the rear, as the rod fouled the chassis where yours does Roger, but it did not foul the diff casing. I have no such issues on my cars.

And re the bolts, from an engineering aspect, what would happen if your nyloc fell off? Not that it would. The bolt, the way you have it, would work loose and fall out! but if it were placed head on the inside, that could not happen. As you say, the bolt nearest the front of the car has to be placed head in, otherwise you cannot get it out without either raising the body, or cutting it up.
Ask me how I know.........good old Mick Miller.

Hmm, thinking about it, I messed about under there for quite some time with stainless steel spacers to get it just right, so maybe thats why it doesn't rub.

All the best,

Leslie

[oldelanman]

And re the bolts, from an engineering aspect, what would happen if your nyloc fell off? Not that it would. The bolt, the way you have it, would work loose and fall out! but if it were placed head on the inside, that could not happen.

Sorry Leslie you've lost me there. Surely if it's possible to fit the bolt with the head on the inside it's possible for it to fall out the same way isn't it ?

Regards,

[types26/36]

Sorry Leslie you've lost me there. Surely if it's possible to fit the bolt with the head on the inside it's possible for it to fall out the same way isn't it ?

I'm glad you asked that Roger as I didn't want to appear thick the only explanation I can think of is that Leslie is saying that the forward motion of the car would keep the bolt in........Leslie ??

[garyeanderson]

D oes this help?

[512BB]

That is correct Brian, but whether the bolt COULD ever fall out should the nyloc come off, I am not so sure, but that is the way I have always fitted those bolts.

And think about it. Your front suspension. You would not dream of fitting any of the bolts to the top ball joint, trunnion or wishbones with the heads to the rear of the car would you...............?

Everyone rushes out to check...................

Leslie

[oldelanman]

And think about it. Your front suspension. You would not dream of fitting any of the bolts to the top ball joint, trunnion or wishbones with the heads to the rear of the car would you...............?

NO....... but I thought that was just to protect my nuts from road dirt

[512BB]

Roger please, wear some clothes when working underneath your car, you will do yourself a mischief. BOOM BOOM

Leslie