Calling on Bubble Flare Experts

[Cinbearcat83]

After fabricating and flaring several lines out of NiCu line, I reconnected all my brake lines on my Elan+2. I bench-bled the master cylinder and started to bleed the the system. I have a leak at the driver's side 3-way connection. It is coming from the top connection that runs from the master cylinder. After inspecting the bubble flare, I pulled off the line, cut off the offending flare and tried it again - same result. I have attached the following photos: 1. Photo #1 shows my originally fabricated bubble (looks a bit fat like a mushroom) on the left and my second attempt on the right. Note that I lightly buffed away the intentions made from the flaring tool vise, 2. Photo #2 shows the original bubble flare 3. Photo #3 shows the 3 way connection. The leak comes from the top of the connection (line has been removed). I have been experimenting with the bubble flare process and have an inexpensive flare tool. Before I invest in a better flaring tool, is the bubble flare the root cause of the leak based on your experience? Thanks for your help - Kevin

[mark030358]

Hi,
Without being rude it looks like you have a cheap brake tool. I suspect the type that is a long bar, in two halves, which compresses the tube when you turn a wingnut. This is an awful tool, ask me how I know

I would buy a better tool, or pre made sections, brakes are your life saving mechanism.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190294673533 ... BwQAvD_BwE

cheers
Mark

[Cinbearcat83]

You are not being rude - you are being accurate . It is a basic set as you described. I am assuming that the bubble flares that the basic tool produced in the photos are not sufficient for a good seal.

[h20hamelan]

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/125413478837?_t ... EDWDRT23DS

harbour freight
tsc
autozone

these work great

[pharriso]

Kevin, you are in the States right?

Do yourself a favor & buy the Eastwood kit - https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html Looks to be on sale at the moment.

I did a complete set of brake pipes for my car effortlessly

[h20hamelan]

Only comment is, that one is very difficult to get into tight spaces.

[smo17003]

There's more on brake line flaring here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=43341&start=

[mbell]

I've used this tool with reasonable results Much better than the cheap tool IMO but not crazy expensive.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/ti ... 1535?pos=5

[h20hamelan]

^

I use a hydraulic vise mount, but tight spaces are tight.

Here’s a cheap one

https://www.vevor.ca/hydraulic-tube-exp ... eMQAvD_BwE

Your photo showed a tight space, if its that fitting

[Cinbearcat83]

I have the line removed from the vehicle to form the flare. I assume with all of the good recommendations for flaring kits, that the bubble flare photo that I posted isn't close enough to the OEM shape and is the cause of the leak. Thanks for all the responses - Kevin

[ElanDNA]

I have the line removed from the vehicle to form the flare. I assume with all of the good recommendations for flaring kits, that the bubble flare photo that I posted isn't close enough to the OEM shape and is the cause of the leak. Thanks for all the responses - Kevin

Hello
With this tool they wouldn't necessarily have had to remove the line.

Flaring device brake lines.pdf

(797.93 KiB) Downloaded 150 times

I would have been glad to have had it back in the early 90s. I did my lines with a cheap rotten tool and managed to keep everything tight to this day.
Greetings Urs

[john.p.clegg]

Maybe it's not the tool, what material are the brake lines?

John

[Craven]

Absolutely essential.

[Cinbearcat83]

I have been using NiCu lines. I am not familiar with flaring grease.

[rgh0]

The .problem is you need a seamless flaring die to do the initial flare and then to form the bubble. It appears the tool used does the initial flare in the split section that grips the tubing resulting in marks on the flare itself that result in leaks. The tube should be gripped below the flared part.

cheers
Rohan