Plus 2 variant

[Marcus+2]

After hours of fiddling, biting the bullet and taking it for professional help, the diagnosis is that it would be best to fit a completely new wiring loom and start from scratch.

So, the embarrassing thing is, I don't really know what version of car it is, so can't order the loom!!

It is 1968, RHD, +2 SE, it has 2 fuses and an alternator, I believe it has a voltage stabilizer? (black box bolted to bulkhead - Pic 3), so its not a US model.

Can anyone advise on version, I'm not sure if it's the standard or the RB106 control box wiring diagram (first 2 in the workshop manual), and need to be certain of this before ordering the loom.

Many thanks
Attachments
Pic 1
Coil and aftermarket relays
Pic 2
Voltage stabilizer maybe?
Pic 3
Relays and alternator
Pic4
2 fuses under shabby wiring

[gus]

The alternator was an added change

Most of the wiring harnesses are very similar for the two fuse generator/amp gauge cars.

I would make sure you use an up graded wire size for the alternator output on a new harness.
If you look through the numerous 2 fuse diagrams there are a few differences, but I doubt many of huge import

[gus]

I don't see that you have explained the electrical issues you have had in detail.
I hesitate to hand the car over to a guy who cannot fix basic electrical issues to put in a new harness
I am not doubting the necessity exactly, but I think unless there is damage, most systems should work, and a new harness won't fix bad relays or switches

[Marcus+2]

Hi, there are a lot of electrical issues with lights and indicators, dials not working, radio not working etc., but the main issue is the state of the wiring. It has been cut and chopped with many aftermarket relays, in proper wire sizes, domestic connectors, taped bare ends, in proper routing etc.
I removed one of the covers in the driver's cockpit, and a bunch of wires just fell out.
It's a proper mess, and there's no point to keep bodging a bodge. It's a fire risk.

[Andy8421]

Marcus,

A smart decision. The looms have a finite life, particularly in the engine bay and nose area. The insulation hardens and cracks, water gets in, leaches along the strands and starts to corrode the copper. The bullet connectors have no weather proofing and also corrode and fail. They were never designed to last.

There are many threads on here about random faults, with owners chasing electrical problems up and down the car. Starting from a known good loom is always a sensible choice, particularly if yours has been hacked about.

Andy.