Putting the elan on the lift

PostPost by: shynsy » Sat May 04, 2024 5:38 pm

Hi All
Attempting to put my new elan on my hydraulic lift. Proposing to use 4 of these thick rubber pads, one on each corner between the sills and the lift. Good idea?
Tim
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20240504_182123.jpg and
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Sat May 04, 2024 6:24 pm

I regularly lift my Elan at the ends of the sills with my 2 post lift, I absolutely wouldn’t have a problem with doing as you suggest with your scissor lift.

Here’s an elan on a similar lift to mine,

Image
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat May 04, 2024 6:38 pm

What driveshafts do you have rotoflexes or CV and if CV what ones
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PostPost by: shynsy » Sat May 04, 2024 6:43 pm

Rotoflex
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat May 04, 2024 7:20 pm

Ok then it's better if you can lift under the rear wheels and pads under the Sills just behind the front wheels.
Imho
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat May 04, 2024 8:18 pm

Spyder fan wrote:Here’s an elan on a similar lift to mine,
[/img]


comment, I have the same lift/hoist as you. I installed the pump on the wall, and added a longer section (with connection) of hose which goes up on through the ceiling.
No hoses in the way, noting to worry about.
If you want photos, will post if requested.

P.S. rotoflex are at maximum torsion when you jack up the car, so if they are old or suspect. careful.
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun May 05, 2024 6:11 am

I have considered many different types of lift options for my +2 over many years now but in the end have never purchased one due to my concerns of them all leaving the Rotoflex donuts hanging.
Leaving Rotoflex donuts hanging even for a short time I consider very unwise.
The safest solution for any car with Rotoflexes has to be a 4post lift which unfortunately most of us don't have room in our garages for.
Perhaps some other means of lifting the car under the rear wheels to relieve the excessive strain put on the hanging rubber Rotoflex joints is a possibility?

Alan.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun May 05, 2024 6:58 am

20221004_132710.jpg and
20221004_132733.jpg and
20220930_104847.jpg and

This is my Lift
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PostPost by: ill_will » Sun May 05, 2024 7:59 am

Neat solution Alan. Would you mind measuring the length of the blue section of platform on your lift please, and the total length with the yellow extensions in place too?

Many thanks,

Will
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun May 05, 2024 8:06 am

Hi Alan,
Well done, looks like you have made your model of scissor lift work in lifting on the wheels on your Elan Sprint but I wonder if this would work on a +2 which is longer in the wheelbase.
Tim, the OP, has posted under the +2 section of the forum so I assume it is a +2 he is referring to?

Alan.
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PostPost by: shynsy » Sun May 05, 2024 8:53 am

Yes it's a plus 2. It's too long to use the same solution but I could lift the car on the sills only and then lower it onto some platforms for the rear wheels to take the strain off the rotoflexes.
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun May 05, 2024 9:47 am

Yes that plan might work from the rotoflex point of view.
On a +2 though my preference would be to utilised the jacking points for lifting. Maybe fabricate some pins with big bases to go into the jacking points and sit on the scissor lift?

Alan.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun May 05, 2024 12:38 pm

Hi Will,
The blue section is 156 cms and the total length is 214 cms.
Max lift is 1.2 mtrs.
The yellow sections can be locked horizontal or left to droop.
For a +2 Elan maybe a little short but you could make the yellow sections longer easily.
I have put planks between the cross tubes between Ramps so have a flat surface for a Skateboard.
Alan
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Sun May 05, 2024 2:22 pm

alanr wrote:….On a +2 though my preference would be to utilised the jacking points for lifting. Maybe fabricate some pins with big bases to go into the jacking points and sit on the scissor lift?

Alan.


That is essentially how I did it. I used a couple of 2 x 8 boards to extend the lift platform. Carriage bolts (trimmed to length) engage the four jacking points on the Plus 2 rocker rails. One Nyloc and one extended length connector nut pad out the carriage bolt so that the relatively delicate fibreglass rocker flange does not contact the 2 x 8. The boards act to stabilize the bolts and keep them vertical; really important as otherwise the bolts will tip and potentially damage the body.

The boards are a bit of a pain to position. The carriage bolts need to be trimmed to length to fit into the jacking holes while the car is on the ground; to be fair the front of my car is a tad low. My lift (Quick-Jack) has a kind of trough on the platform; the bottom side of the boards have plywood cleats each end that accurately position the boards and hold the whole affair in position when lifting. The car is very stable in the air.

For leaving the car up for extended periods I have several sets of cleated blocks so the car can be placed on four wheels. The blocks are made up with standard dimensional lumber.

Edit for a very important caution. Do not assume the Plus 2 jacking points are strong enough on an unrestored or uninspected car. The steel rocker rails are often rusted to dust. New rocker rails are readily available and generally replaced during a frame off restoration. The rocker integrity can be easily inspected by removing the sheet steel inspection hatches in the wheel wells. If your rails are shot use a different jacking method to replace the rails.

HTH
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9101ED9E-2CA6-4B12-825B-8EC5B5A56625.jpeg and
This is the car up on the lift. Note the connector nut and nyloc nut (with a single fender washer to prevent damage to the top of the board) perfectly space the body off of the lift. On my car the nuts have rubbed the rocker a bit even when carefully clocked, so might need to grind the inner face of the nuts. I tend to use a bit of spray undercoat to touch up the area in the spring.
D6061241-B6E1-4324-ACFD-25B7590CA5F2.jpeg
This is one set of cleated blocks. Used these for years before I got the lift. Very secure and no issues with droop. The lowest set (2x4 intermediate block) are perfect for securely raising the car to pull the engine. This medium set (2x6 intermediate block) can be fitted using the lift. I have a taller set (2x8 intermediate block) that require a different jacking method and a couple of separate lifts; if doing again I probably wouldn’t bother with this size. If only making one set, I would suggest the lowest set, and simply raise and lock the car on the lift while working and lower back down to store. That said, the medium height are the go-to size for working on the car, but too tall to remove the engine and transmission, at least with my engine crane.
D6061241-B6E1-4324-ACFD-25B7590CA5F2.jpeg (70.83 KiB) Viewed 758 times
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun May 05, 2024 4:14 pm

Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
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