CV drive shaft conversion

[smo17003]

Someone has posted their method of fitment on YouTube

https://youtu.be/AWq3FTdlC3E?si=_1--rbKpfJjS0zI4

[englishmaninwales]

That’s a very shiny car underneath, I wonder if it ever gets driven?

[Andy8421]

I have a second hand set of CV driveshafts I was planning to use for my rebuild, but having looked at Elantrikbits offering in more detail, I think I will buy a set.

Could anyone who has recently purchased a set explain the import duties involved? Is it simply +20% VAT plus the usual gouging of the 'import agent' for filling in a form and taking my money - or is there more to it?

Thanks for any replies.

Andy.

[SimonH]

Not 100% but when I last looked it was whatever they charge for the part plus shipping. Between 2 and 4% of that on top as duty then vat on that lot. I guess the shipper charges are then separate but on top of that.

Plus 2 or Elan CV shafts? If you want to sell them for refurbing and are plus 2 ones then might be interested as I cant afford the trikbits ones these days

[Andy8421]

Elan, not plus2.

I will dig them out and stick them on the 'for sale' section.

[RichardHawkins]

Andy,

I thought I could make my own CV conversion, which I did, but with much more time and effort than I expected.

My car was a basket case and I had the suspension and differential apart at the time. I checked the run out of the drive shafts at both ends of the CV shaft (differential output and wheel hub input) as I thought they had been roughly treated. None of the four ran true, particularly, the three bolt holes were not concentric with the centre line of their respective shafts, the worst had a runout of 0.025”. I was able to correct these errors by making each adaptor to compensate.

Whether this was really necessary I don’t know as my restoration in not complete, but I do think it is worth checking the lotus components that these drive shafts will connect to and then seek advice from elantrikbits.

I bought something totally different from Australia, it was too big or too heavy to use Australia Post and freight was more than the cost of the item. The suppliers repacked the item into two parcels that were within the limits of Australia Post. I can’t remember how much duty I paid at this end.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[shynsy]

Hi All,
This is a very interesting discussion. (I should say I don't have an elan at the mo.. need to sell my supercharged TR6 before re-engaging with elans). However the same discussions occur with TR4/5/6s. These normally have UJ and sliding spline rear axles and rear hubs that can let go meaning you loose a rear wheel and all brakes!. CV jointed rear axles have been around for a while and are a bit "marmite" with traditionalists liking the original setups although you might loose a wheel and the axles can lock on the splines making the handling interesting. I have changed to CVs for safety and because my supercharged 6 eats UJs. I am also very aware of the safety critical element of these sorts of discussions and the CV seemed safer.

It is also interesting hearing these discussions having not had my +2 for almost a decade. Even back then there were big discussions about all donuts axles, half donut/cv, double cv and uj/sliding spline. I was convinced by Tony Thompson to have the uj/sliding spline solution. He said what was good for racing must be reliable. Have to say it was a total mistake and one of the reasons I sold the +2 (which I now regret!). The double uj axle would lock splines and knock away on tight up hill bends even with droop limiting shocks.. completely spoiled driving the +2 on hilly twisties.

Now, if I manage to sell the 6 and by a +2 I think I will go CVs.

Loved the discussion by the way.
Cheers
Tim

[Andy8421]

Hi All,
This is a very interesting discussion. (I should say I don't have an elan at the mo.. need to sell my supercharged TR6 before re-engaging with elans). However the same discussions occur with TR4/5/6s. These normally have UJ and sliding spline rear axles and rear hubs that can let go meaning you loose a rear wheel and all brakes!. CV jointed rear axles have been around for a while and are a bit "marmite" with traditionalists liking the original setups although you might loose a wheel and the axles can lock on the splines making the handling interesting. I have changed to CVs for safety and because my supercharged 6 eats UJs. I am also very aware of the safety critical element of these sorts of discussions and the CV seemed safer.

It is also interesting hearing these discussions having not had my +2 for almost a decade. Even back then there were big discussions about all donuts axles, half donut/cv, double cv and uj/sliding spline. I was convinced by Tony Thompson to have the uj/sliding spline solution. He said what was good for racing must be reliable. Have to say it was a total mistake and one of the reasons I sold the +2 (which I now regret!). The double uj axle would lock splines and knock away on tight up hill bends even with droop limiting shocks.. completely spoiled driving the +2 on hilly twisties.

Now, if I manage to sell the 6 and by a +2 I think I will go CVs.

Loved the discussion by the way.
Cheers
Tim

Tim,

Interesting to hear about the spline lock up issue. It is an area I spent some time looking at. In period, the 26R had 'ball splines' which eliminated the lock up. I have a competition Elan with TTR UJ / splines driveshaft and haven't really noticed the problem, however the rear suspension is hard, lowered, and has little effective travel, so the effect is probably masked.

Andy.

[Andy8421]

Andy,

I thought I could make my own CV conversion, which I did, but with much more time and effort than I expected.

My car was a basket case and I had the suspension and differential apart at the time. I checked the run out of the drive shafts at both ends of the CV shaft (differential output and wheel hub input) as I thought they had been roughly treated. None of the four ran true, particularly, the three bolt holes were not concentric with the centre line of their respective shafts, the worst had a runout of 0.025”. I was able to correct these errors by making each adaptor to compensate.

Whether this was really necessary I don’t know as my restoration in not complete, but I do think it is worth checking the lotus components that these drive shafts will connect to and then seek advice from elantrikbits.

I bought something totally different from Australia, it was too big or too heavy to use Australia Post and freight was more than the cost of the item. The suppliers repacked the item into two parcels that were within the limits of Australia Post. I can’t remember how much duty I paid at this end.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

Richard,

Thanks for the info.

Andy.

[skelteanema]

I had a pair of the Elantrikbits CV's for a while and fitted them during the covid lockdown period when I had a bit of spare time on my hands.

I used the method that was shown in the video that Mike poseted, although my car was not show-room clean underneath so I put plastic bags over the exposed end to stop dust and dirt from entering the joints. It was a reasonably straightforward process on fitting the CV's and I have been happy with them.

One question I wanted to ask was about the diff strengthening brace. There wasn't one installed as my car is an S3, and I didn't have one on hand when I fitted the CV joints. I have since bought one, and have been meaning to install it. Do you need to remove the CV joints to install it or can you fit it with the CV's in place?

[shynsy]

Hi All,

Tim,

Interesting to hear about the spline lock up issue. It is an area I spent some time looking at. In period, the 26R had 'ball splines' which eliminated the lock up. I have a competition Elan with TTR UJ / splines driveshaft and haven't really noticed the problem, however the rear suspension is hard, lowered, and has little effective travel, so the effect is probably masked.

Andy.

You may be right.. I was 90% sure it was spline lock but I also wondered whether it was the suspension extending too much for the UJs. I fitted droop restricting shocks and at the time TT recommended grinding the UJs to give more clearence. Certainly on full droop all was fine and the noise tended to come from the loaded wheel which made me assume it was spline lock.

I suspect stiff suspenson with less movement would help a lot!

Tim

[512BB]

Skittle,

You do not need to remove the CV's to fit a diff brace, but there is very limited room under there to get it in. You will need to move the diff as far back in the chassis as it will go, having removed the 2 long diff mounting bolts and the bolt in the diff case at 12 o clock, which will be a challenge in itself,.and then hopefully you can slip it in, as the actress said to the Bishop

The job will be a little easier if you have the early alloy housing with the thin ears, as opposed to the later housing with the strengthened ears, which are bulkier, therefore less room. You will also need a longer bolt for the short one you removed, to accomodate the brace.

Good luck wth it,

Leslie

[Breezehill]

Just dropped my diff for a rebuild, leaking oil seals. Posted picture so you can see the brace.

It’s 40 some years since I last did the diff when the original chassis failed, paint etc held up well.

[alan.barker]

Did you manage to remove the diff with brace fitted. I'm surprised.
Alan

[Breezehill]

Hi Alan, yes did come out complete.

However once it’s been refurbished I’ll be putting it back in its location minus the brace then refit the brace and washers before bolting up.