Elan Plus 2 (LHD) in the Lausanne (Switzerland) area?
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Hello,
After much hesitation I have decided to convert my Plus 2 from RHD to LHD. I would very much like to see a LHD model up close to witness how it is made, to take pictures and to take a few measurements before I start the work.
I live on the shores of the Lake of Geneva and if you are located not too far from there I would really appreciate if you are willing to show me you car.
Thanks!
François
After much hesitation I have decided to convert my Plus 2 from RHD to LHD. I would very much like to see a LHD model up close to witness how it is made, to take pictures and to take a few measurements before I start the work.
I live on the shores of the Lake of Geneva and if you are located not too far from there I would really appreciate if you are willing to show me you car.
Thanks!
François
Fran?ois
Lotus Elan Plus 2 130S Big Valves
Lotus Elan Plus 2 130S Big Valves
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LotusEngineeringBuff - First Gear
- Posts: 37
- Joined: 17 Nov 2016
- Location: Lausanne area, Switzerland
Hallo Francois
I own a +2 S130 LHD which is parked near Fribourg. I am allready on the way to put the Car together, so i dont know a visit will be helpfull. If you are interested, mail me on [email protected]" or Mobile 079 301 92 31
I own a +2 S130 LHD which is parked near Fribourg. I am allready on the way to put the Car together, so i dont know a visit will be helpfull. If you are interested, mail me on [email protected]" or Mobile 079 301 92 31
Hanspeter
Elan +2 S130 1971 Pistachio Lime Green
Elan +2 S130 1971 Pistachio Lime Green
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hastu - First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 06 Jan 2022
- Location: Schweiz
Thanks Hanspeter ! What a relief! PM will soon follow 

Fran?ois
Lotus Elan Plus 2 130S Big Valves
Lotus Elan Plus 2 130S Big Valves
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LotusEngineeringBuff - First Gear
- Posts: 37
- Joined: 17 Nov 2016
- Location: Lausanne area, Switzerland
I sold a project +2 to a guy in Liechtenstein. The body was completely stripped and you clearly see both the pre-drilled LHD and RHD hole patterns for cabling, steering column etc.
- alleggerita
- New-tral
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 01 Mar 2013
- Location: the Netherlands
Must have been completed by a PO as the only pre-drilled holes were for the top mounting bracket. There is a hole that could be mistaken for a steering column exit hole, but it is not.
Francois - no real need to take measurements. I started my conversion like you, a bit worried, but it all falls into plce quite easily.
What chassis do you have? If a Spyder, dead easy as they supply a rack ready made and even tell you which holes to use on the chassis! I cannot comment on what is used on an original chassis. Once fitted, you will need to cut an aperture fore the column and a hole above for the column and handbrake cable - see the RH side for size and position. The aperture is pretty crude as it allows for column final assembly and finished with the plate over the top. You will need to glass in the aperture you have left on the RH side.
Do you have a LH mounting plate? I think hard to get them, but easy to make. Now temporarily fit the new dashboard. This will show you where the column needs to be positioned. Important you get it right! If you have the correct mounts, then the column should line up nicely with the pre drilled four holes at top and two lower down.
Now, here is the important bit: the alternator will be in the way! A new mount is needed that will raise the alternator enough to allow the column to fit under.
Once all this is done, then mount the pedal box - use the one you already have. I am using an XR3i steering column, so it was fiddly to find the right position for the box, but I started by cutting a small aperture above the column roughtly where the box will connect with the body, and with some careful measurements, found the best position, widened the aperture and drilled for the mounting holes. Note the pedal stems need to be bent a few inches above the actual pedal to allow a comfortable fit. Also note that the glass is a bit bendy down there, so give some time to make a couple of strengtheners fore and aft from the pedal box search the archives for lots on this.
Now it is just move the servo, mount the handbrake and extend the brake lines and column wiring. Final fit of the dash and bingo, you can overtake with prowess if not speed!
I am still working on the best place to mount the wiper motor. And the opening left from removal of the pedal box is pretty awful that needs to be glassed over.
viewtopic.php?t=13635&p=62016
Hope it goes well.
Francois - no real need to take measurements. I started my conversion like you, a bit worried, but it all falls into plce quite easily.
What chassis do you have? If a Spyder, dead easy as they supply a rack ready made and even tell you which holes to use on the chassis! I cannot comment on what is used on an original chassis. Once fitted, you will need to cut an aperture fore the column and a hole above for the column and handbrake cable - see the RH side for size and position. The aperture is pretty crude as it allows for column final assembly and finished with the plate over the top. You will need to glass in the aperture you have left on the RH side.
Do you have a LH mounting plate? I think hard to get them, but easy to make. Now temporarily fit the new dashboard. This will show you where the column needs to be positioned. Important you get it right! If you have the correct mounts, then the column should line up nicely with the pre drilled four holes at top and two lower down.
Now, here is the important bit: the alternator will be in the way! A new mount is needed that will raise the alternator enough to allow the column to fit under.
Once all this is done, then mount the pedal box - use the one you already have. I am using an XR3i steering column, so it was fiddly to find the right position for the box, but I started by cutting a small aperture above the column roughtly where the box will connect with the body, and with some careful measurements, found the best position, widened the aperture and drilled for the mounting holes. Note the pedal stems need to be bent a few inches above the actual pedal to allow a comfortable fit. Also note that the glass is a bit bendy down there, so give some time to make a couple of strengtheners fore and aft from the pedal box search the archives for lots on this.
Now it is just move the servo, mount the handbrake and extend the brake lines and column wiring. Final fit of the dash and bingo, you can overtake with prowess if not speed!
I am still working on the best place to mount the wiper motor. And the opening left from removal of the pedal box is pretty awful that needs to be glassed over.
viewtopic.php?t=13635&p=62016
Hope it goes well.
Hal Adams
Evora S with Komotec 405 pack
Elan +2 EFI
Evora S with Komotec 405 pack
Elan +2 EFI
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HCA - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 984
- Joined: 03 Jan 2020
- Location: Limoux, France
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