Lotus Elan

Plus 2 restoration

PostPost by: seniorchristo » Thu May 05, 2022 10:22 pm

I am currently building an Elan Plus 2 fast road "restomod". I say restomod because it will be modified to fast road specs using nearly all Lotus components except for a Spyder chassis. I had originally intended to build a Zetec conversion but that is currently above my skill level. I also don't like their apparent high stance and low ground clearance to the exhaust system. Instead it will be powered by a 1700 cc tall block motor or long stroke 1700 Lotus block. The body I am using has sat out in the weather for about 30 years but has no visible body damage (no bondo) but the surface is worn past the gelcoat in spots. Needless to say I have plenty of work to do but I'm really looking forward to it :D . The chassis and drivetrain are mostly complete but they are the easy parts.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Fri May 06, 2022 12:08 am

Have fun with it, looks like a great project!
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PostPost by: The Veg » Fri May 06, 2022 12:32 am

Wot Phil sed! Can't wait to see it come together!
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Wed May 11, 2022 9:53 pm

:D Reconditioned a couple of items today. The pedal box and steering support bracket. Both were rusty but repairable. I replaced the pedal box shaft with a stainless steel one and modified the top for a removable access panel.

Speaking of brakes, has anyone run a Plus 2 without the servos? Is pedal pressure required excessive? I would like to eliminate the expense and complication if possible.
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Limited rust can add lightness
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PostPost by: berni29 » Wed May 11, 2022 10:05 pm

Hi

Looks like a great project. I am just starting to build up my +2 Spyder chassis. Do you have anything to say about brake and fuel line placement and materials?

Many thanks

Berni
Red + 2 under construction, Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back in the fold 04/11/2021
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Wed May 11, 2022 11:10 pm

Berni

My chassis is almost complete except for the brake lines. I am waiting on my decision whether or not to add servos.
I have a kit to make the brake line flairs but I need to research the types of brake lines available before I proceed. I will keep you posted,

Chris :)
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PostPost by: mbell » Thu May 12, 2022 1:46 am

I run servo less on my car, have used 5/8" single master and just switched to 0.7" tandem master. Running ebc green stuff pads. I find pedal pressure fine, wouldn't describe it as light but have never found myself thinking they are heavy.

On a rhd removing the servo also simplifies the brake line routing, just straight from the master to the multi way connector on the right chassis rail.

For pipes iif just use cunifer. Original fitment was bubble flares rather than the double flares used in US cars.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu May 12, 2022 2:14 am

I ran 0170N for a very short period of time with no servos and a 5/8" bore master cylinder. It was a frightening experience with hopelessly inadequate braking and the sound of fiberglass cracking at the pedal box mounting. I did not use modern brake pads but I doubt they would make up for the nearly 3:1 servo gain.
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Thu May 12, 2022 12:12 pm

That's interesting, the smaller diameter piston should reduce pedal effort as well. I'm building a Zetec car (Sierra brakes) and wasn't intending to use a servo, I'll keep my options open about adding one.
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PostPost by: woodie » Sat May 14, 2022 11:07 am

It's great to see another one of these cars being saved.
I hope it takes you less than the 32 years I took me!
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PostPost by: Donels » Sat May 14, 2022 5:36 pm

I used copper brake pipes and cunifer fuel pipe. Have used both as brake pipes on earlier projects with no problem. Refurbishing the servo is not a great expense with the kit being around £100 and if you can refurb a master cylinder you can refurb the servo. If not fitting a servo Spyder sell a strengthening plate that fits round the pedal box to reinforce the GF.
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