Bonnet catch - backing plate.

[wotsisname]

Hi all,
I was debating whether to fix the bonnet catches [the mechanism that attaches to the engine bay bulkhead] with a backing plate with captive nuts, thinking this would make adjusting the catch easier once the dash is in place.
But then I had a thought - if the bonnet jams (does this happen ?) would it be impossible to release.

- So in short - is this a bad idea ?

[ericbushby]

I did mine the other way round so that if I could not open the bonnet, then I could remove the screws from under the dashboard.
I made a brass clamp plate with two nuts silver soldered on to it which goes on the engine bay side.
Screws and load spreading washers under the dash. I just happened to have the brass sheet.
Just a thought.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[KevJ+2]

I have drilled a hole behind the rear number plate (covered by grommet) in case the rear boot cable malfunctions.
I have also thought about doing the same behind the bonnet catches. A small hole that a small screwdriver can push back each lever from inside the car.
It's my dread that the cable breaks! Has it happened to anyone

Kev.

[ElanDNA]

I did mine the other way round so that if I could not open the bonnet, then I could remove the screws from under the dashboard.
I made a brass clamp plate with two nuts silver soldered on to it which goes on the engine bay side.
Screws and load spreading washers under the dash. I just happened to have the brass sheet.
Just a thought.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

Hi Eric
My idea was nearly the same. I made a stainless
steel clamp with two screws weld on them.
Under the dash only washers and stop nuts (stainless all).
For a lot of things I prefer this material.
Urs

[types26/36]

Lotus made provision for the bonnet cable breaking and fitted spire clips in order to release the catches.
The spire clips should already be on the cars.

[prezoom]

My latches on my Plus2 are attached to a plate on the dash side with threads or captive nuts. There was also a bit of not so robust wood between the latch and the firewall. The wood will be replaced with a piece of white nylon block, milled to the same shape as the deteriorating wood. As I am in the process of re-painting the engine compartment, I left two bolts in place to hold the plates in position, so as to not have to wrestle with holding the plates up under the dash with way too short arms. The nylon blocks will hide the not perfect paint where the bolts were left in place.

With the engine out, I plan on re-installing the latches and adjusting their operating position with relationship to the hood, while the car is on the lift. That way I will have no worries about the dreaded un-latchable hood before the engine and all accessories are back in place.

I do love the dove grey engine compartment, making me wonder if I am going to be happy with the like body color I am applying. Anything will be better than the rattle can flat black that covered everything.

[wotsisname]

Thanks for your replies, I hadn't appreciated the different parts between the +2 & the elan.
i too am planning to replace the wooden blocks as these are falling apart. I also wish I had done this before fitting the engine.
I like the idea of the captive nuts on the engine side. as the +2 has a three hole arrangement I'm thinking I might use square nuts and/ or a bent washer, so that the nut doesn't just rotate if it is loosened off from the dash side.

Adrian

[Grizzly]

2 seaters are different catches altogether.

I don't have a picture to hand but on my +2 i just made some plates up the same shape as the flat of the catch (if that makes sense) drilled holes in the correct positions and tacked the heads to the plate with a blob of weld underneath so you can't see it and they don't turn from the engine side.. The wooden blocks do tend to fall to bits but are easy to replace.

lotus-chassis-f36/1974-elan-s130-restoration-stuck-bonnet-t22284.html

[deadline]

What size screws are used to secure the Bonnet catch to the firewall? I tried 8-32 but they seem to big.
Thanks,
Dan