Photos of 1969 +2S. Any requests?
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Hello
My 2S is now here, and I've started taking plenty of photos. See https://goo.gl/photos/BFi2jXXBJtXQQq9W9 - let me know if there's a problem accessing them.
The car is, I think, in very original condition and seems fairly complete. It's certainly been untouched since 1980, apart from some terrible paintwork.
If you've any areas you'd like me to photograph for you, please let me know and I'll do my best.
All the best
Ned
My 2S is now here, and I've started taking plenty of photos. See https://goo.gl/photos/BFi2jXXBJtXQQq9W9 - let me know if there's a problem accessing them.
The car is, I think, in very original condition and seems fairly complete. It's certainly been untouched since 1980, apart from some terrible paintwork.
If you've any areas you'd like me to photograph for you, please let me know and I'll do my best.
All the best
Ned
+2S 1969 50/2283
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NedK - Second Gear
- Posts: 101
- Joined: 31 Aug 2015
Ned, I have a pretty original and complete Federal Feburary 1970 Plus 2S but there are two areas I can think of currently which I don't have any photos of:
- my car has the two engine bay lights but the switch was missing. It is supposed to be mounted on the leading edge of the bonnet, left side. I've found the holes, but don't know where the factory routed the wiring. Love to see that on your car, if you have that lighting and switch presence.
- second, my car has the S interior but did not come with the under-dash trim panel, on driver's side. Wondering if you could take a shot of that for me, if you still have that panel.
Thanks so much, Ned, and happy building
Randy
- my car has the two engine bay lights but the switch was missing. It is supposed to be mounted on the leading edge of the bonnet, left side. I've found the holes, but don't know where the factory routed the wiring. Love to see that on your car, if you have that lighting and switch presence.
- second, my car has the S interior but did not come with the under-dash trim panel, on driver's side. Wondering if you could take a shot of that for me, if you still have that panel.
Thanks so much, Ned, and happy building
Randy
-
Sea Ranch - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1141
- Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Hi Randy
Happy to help. Strangely, I was looking at that switch about 5 mins before I read your post!
So, the switch is a plunger fitted into a hole in the LHS leading edge of the bonnet. There is a rivet/screw? on either side (now rotted away).
https://goo.gl/photos/kBBpRoyMhAidC2WL6
The switch itself is also rotten beyond repair. EDIT: I'm pretty sure it's a Linread switch, from the diamond shape.
https://goo.gl/photos/bWJ6z5UeP9ynANYE9
Trapped underneath one fixing is a short single black wire leading to a bullet, which in mine was unattached to anything else. Another black wire of the same length was unattached to anything, perched on the chassis. There's no evidence of where the second wire is attached.
https://goo.gl/photos/EHCwCxEWbLJzDHXv5
Nearby you can see there is a small subloom, consisting of 2 red/whitestripe, and 2 black bullet sockets. The black ones fell off before I could take this pic. There is just one black (earth) wire feeding the bullet sockets, but two individual red/whitestripe wires:
https://goo.gl/photos/X5k6hD7hL2bgs6SC8
That threads vertically down past the radiator bottle, and then into the left wing (looking like it's heading for the LHS engine bay light). Meanwhile, the loom branches and a thin subloom runs up towards the RHS engine light.
I've tested for continuity, and the red/whites are connected to the red/white wire on the lamps on either side. So it's definitely a sub loom just for the engine lights.
https://goo.gl/photos/zYoqrNdaJeyrBwz26
So I'm missing some wires between the switch and the subloom, but until I get a new switch I won't be able to tell how it goes together. I don't really understand how the switch works, though clearly it is depressed when the bonnet is shut (there are score marks on the bodywork), and then pops open and makes the connection. Any ideas for a replacement? Must be a parts bin job, I'd imagine!
I'll check about your trim panel later today!
All the best from London
Ned
Happy to help. Strangely, I was looking at that switch about 5 mins before I read your post!
So, the switch is a plunger fitted into a hole in the LHS leading edge of the bonnet. There is a rivet/screw? on either side (now rotted away).
https://goo.gl/photos/kBBpRoyMhAidC2WL6
The switch itself is also rotten beyond repair. EDIT: I'm pretty sure it's a Linread switch, from the diamond shape.
https://goo.gl/photos/bWJ6z5UeP9ynANYE9
Trapped underneath one fixing is a short single black wire leading to a bullet, which in mine was unattached to anything else. Another black wire of the same length was unattached to anything, perched on the chassis. There's no evidence of where the second wire is attached.
https://goo.gl/photos/EHCwCxEWbLJzDHXv5
Nearby you can see there is a small subloom, consisting of 2 red/whitestripe, and 2 black bullet sockets. The black ones fell off before I could take this pic. There is just one black (earth) wire feeding the bullet sockets, but two individual red/whitestripe wires:
https://goo.gl/photos/X5k6hD7hL2bgs6SC8
That threads vertically down past the radiator bottle, and then into the left wing (looking like it's heading for the LHS engine bay light). Meanwhile, the loom branches and a thin subloom runs up towards the RHS engine light.
I've tested for continuity, and the red/whites are connected to the red/white wire on the lamps on either side. So it's definitely a sub loom just for the engine lights.
https://goo.gl/photos/zYoqrNdaJeyrBwz26
So I'm missing some wires between the switch and the subloom, but until I get a new switch I won't be able to tell how it goes together. I don't really understand how the switch works, though clearly it is depressed when the bonnet is shut (there are score marks on the bodywork), and then pops open and makes the connection. Any ideas for a replacement? Must be a parts bin job, I'd imagine!
I'll check about your trim panel later today!
All the best from London
Ned
Last edited by NedK on Mon Sep 21, 2015 2:38 pm, edited 5 times in total.
+2S 1969 50/2283
-
NedK - Second Gear
- Posts: 101
- Joined: 31 Aug 2015
Hi Ned, Good luck with the resto, and welcome to the forum. It will be a great car once finished. Looking at your photos, just wondered what the red hazard light mounted behind the ashtray does/did? Maybe a PO wanted an illuminated ashtray for "ambience"!
Cheers,
Martin B
Cheers,
Martin B
Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana.
72 Europa Special, 72 Sprint, 72 Plus 2
72 Europa Special, 72 Sprint, 72 Plus 2
- martinbrowning
- Third Gear
- Posts: 320
- Joined: 07 Jun 2007
martinbrowning wrote:Hi Ned, Good luck with the resto, and welcome to the forum. It will be a great car once finished. Looking at your photos, just wondered what the red hazard light mounted behind the ashtray does/did? Maybe a PO wanted an illuminated ashtray for "ambience"!
Hi Martin
Thanks for the welcome!
Yes, I wondered about that light too. Has anyone else got one?
I imagine it was to produce a nice homing beacon when you're stubbing your fags out at night. My car has original 1970s cig butts and matches in! You can take this originality thing too far sometimes...
Ned
+2S 1969 50/2283
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NedK - Second Gear
- Posts: 101
- Joined: 31 Aug 2015
So, it left the factory on 23rd December 1969 - someone's special Christmas present?! Colour was originally Bahama yellow, so it has seen a few changes in the meantime.
Looks a great original car, including the water deflectors on the middle front of the door shuts - these are often missing and have dubious effectiveness, the water always seems to get in. Lots of extra factory fitted lights and what looks like an original wiring harness. Mileage of 40kish looks about right. Restoration will be a challenge, but all the bits are there - but they all need a good fettle. The difficulty is deciding what to keep/refurbish and what to ditch as too far gone. It looks to have been kept in the damp for a long time and that has rotted a lot of the pretty stuff. Any ideas as to how the chassis has fared? The state of the bumpers is not a good sign.
How do you intend to proceed? Full strip, box up parts, body off, refurbish and re-assemble. Sounds easy, but is really hard to keep momentum going. Carry on taking lots of pics, asking for help/advice here and, as the car looks pretty original, expect more questions about what fitted where!
My car was totally stripped and body off to paint in less than a week, but took upwards of a year to put back together - that is seen as pretty quick in +2 circles - even with specialist doing most of the spannery bits!
Any idea what caused it to be taken off the road? Engine or something else? That may be a good place to start..
Anyway.. I look forward to seeing your progress and if you need any help, I'm sure there will beplenty on offer via this forum..
Jeremy
PS http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxford-Diecas ... 1708907387
Looks a great original car, including the water deflectors on the middle front of the door shuts - these are often missing and have dubious effectiveness, the water always seems to get in. Lots of extra factory fitted lights and what looks like an original wiring harness. Mileage of 40kish looks about right. Restoration will be a challenge, but all the bits are there - but they all need a good fettle. The difficulty is deciding what to keep/refurbish and what to ditch as too far gone. It looks to have been kept in the damp for a long time and that has rotted a lot of the pretty stuff. Any ideas as to how the chassis has fared? The state of the bumpers is not a good sign.
How do you intend to proceed? Full strip, box up parts, body off, refurbish and re-assemble. Sounds easy, but is really hard to keep momentum going. Carry on taking lots of pics, asking for help/advice here and, as the car looks pretty original, expect more questions about what fitted where!
My car was totally stripped and body off to paint in less than a week, but took upwards of a year to put back together - that is seen as pretty quick in +2 circles - even with specialist doing most of the spannery bits!
Any idea what caused it to be taken off the road? Engine or something else? That may be a good place to start..
Anyway.. I look forward to seeing your progress and if you need any help, I'm sure there will beplenty on offer via this forum..
Jeremy
PS http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxford-Diecas ... 1708907387
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JJDraper - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1031
- Joined: 17 Oct 2004
Ned,
Where the paint is flaking in the bonnet opening (I have marked your image), is there a body number in the body? Should be a 4 digit number.
Andy
Where the paint is flaking in the bonnet opening (I have marked your image), is there a body number in the body? Should be a 4 digit number.
Andy
- LotusArchives
- Second Gear
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 16 Jul 2008
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