Lotus Elan

MOT fail

PostPost by: GHill » Sat Oct 18, 2014 1:03 pm

Morning All

So I took the car for the dreaded MOT today and the attached is the result:
image.jpg and


Actually quite pleased nothing too major - so what job would you do first?

Cheers
Gareth
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PostPost by: ricarbo » Sat Oct 18, 2014 2:22 pm

I wonder what item 4 means. Any more detail?
I guess the handbrake will be the most work.
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PostPost by: GHill » Sat Oct 18, 2014 2:48 pm

Item 4 is the fact that the brake servo has some radiator pipe but should have metal reinforced pipe.
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PostPost by: PeterK » Sat Oct 18, 2014 4:07 pm

I'd start by understanding what you might have to buy and get bits ordered. So for me, order bits for 4&5, check 3 & 6 and then order whatever.

1&2 could be quickly done by the MOT tester or you and the garage wall (MOt tester did mine)
3 could be as simple as cleaning the nozzles or the pick up filter (if fitted), or a new pump at worst
4 sounds like a new pipe
5 I assume is a new bracket or strap
6 could just be adjustment or worst case new pads and / or cable (unlikely, but possible)

As you say, nothing to get stressed about there. I'd adjust the handbrake just before I went to the MOT test, maybe even over-adjust it. If you then de-adjust it afterwards, remember to leave it in gear when you park :-)
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PostPost by: GHill » Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:44 pm

Yep, looking through the parts catalogue as we speak!

The lights are already fully adjusted and are also very foggy so need replacing - I will order new ones next week and will strip down tonight to see if I can add spacer in the bowl to get them pointing up more!

It's the washer pump which I'm most concerned about because 1 it's a pig to get to and 2 the pump doesn't appear to work at all - any ideas?

The garage let me look under the car as they inspected and the exhaust will be easy as it's missing a bolt and he showed me how to adjust the handbrake so will do both jobs at the same time!

Cheers
Gareth
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sat Oct 18, 2014 6:17 pm

GHill wrote: I will order new ones next week and will strip down tonight to see if I can add spacer in the bowl to get them pointing up more!


Not sure if the +2 is the same as the two seater bit this has limiting stops to set the position of the headlights, maybe you could adjust them so they lift to a higher position.
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stops (Copy).JPG and
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PostPost by: cal44 » Sat Oct 18, 2014 6:32 pm

Boy........would I like to make some comments on this and government control of people..........but I won't
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PostPost by: Europatc » Sat Oct 18, 2014 6:51 pm

Good evening Gareth,
Mine failed on the front number plate. I showed them the letter from Lotus confirming the year of manufacture. I took several lotus books in showing them that they left the factory with the numbers fitted to the grill and thats why inside the nose is painted black so that the white figures stand out. I got the pass eventually oh yes I had to get the n/s washer jet to point down a little. Thing is when you're moving it hits the screen just right.
I contacted auto windscreens last week Britain's biggest. I asked if they would be able to fit me a new windscreen. After three days I got a call back informing me that they did not think that their staff would have the knowledge to fit one as they are all too young. He did quote me ?480 for the supply of a windscreen. He could not quote on the seal as that came in 3 parts? and he was waiting for a price on the chrome work?
pathetic
all the best
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PostPost by: elanman999 » Sat Oct 18, 2014 7:37 pm

Cal44 is correct, but as a UK citizen all I would say is that you have to find a "good" MOT station. When you do half of your problems will be solved.

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John
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PostPost by: Europatc » Sat Oct 18, 2014 7:48 pm

What you need John is staff who have some experience and not just plug a computer in to the system to be told what to do. There a dying breed, well around these parts at least
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PostPost by: GHill » Sat Oct 18, 2014 8:00 pm

Hi Brian

You're right I've just had a look and think that the below is the plus 2 equivalent:

image.jpg and


Update:

So I've stripped down ( ;-) ) the lights and made the parts order list as follows

New rubber seals as these were very perished
New sealed units
Some new screws as quite a few were rusty

Oh and I quickly painted the bowls as these looked tatty!

image.jpg and


That's enough for tonight perhaps another coat tomorrow.

The MOT tester was a good guy, he is used to classic cars and owns a 60's mini and late 60's Pontiac so we had a good chat! He offered to put me in contact with his network too if I needed a hand - a genuine guy and showed me all the tests he was doing and giving me advice about other jobs which although not MOT failures I needed to add to my list!

Cheers
Gareth
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PostPost by: PeterK » Sat Oct 18, 2014 9:22 pm

As it's a 130 I'm assuming that the lights are the fail safe, with a joining rod between the lights and a single actuating pod.
Do check that the spring is holding the light pods full up / open (the flat surface in from to the lenses being nicely aligned with the surrounding bodywork. If they are not fully up, then can you push them all the way up. If no, then adjust the stops (the 7/16 bolts shown in a previous picture). If you can push them to be fully up, then does the spring need tweaking to hold them open.

If all else fails, add a washer under the bottom of the light bowl before you screw it on :-)

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PostPost by: oldchieft » Sun Oct 19, 2014 7:43 am

cal44 wrote:Boy........would I like to make some comments on this and government control of people..........but I won't


Ya I get it the NSA could be listening

Jon the Chief.

(well that's me on the watch list)
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PostPost by: GHill » Sun Oct 19, 2014 11:46 am

Hi All

So I adjusted the screw (see above) and the lights sit about 50mm higher and now much better align with the body work also (a win win).

Should have the new lights by next week and attached a bolt the the back of the exhaust and it's bracket this morning so that's another job done!

Cheers
Gareth
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:24 pm

I can't tell if they are there in the picture but make sure to put the rubber bump stops on the bolt heads. The metal to fiberglass impacts over time will crack the pods, especially at the point where the pods stow in the down position. After repairing my pods, I used the bumpers found at the fat end of pool cues to increase the contact area. Not original but makes for a soft, quiet stop in both directions.
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