Wandering around the straight ahead - what to check?

PostPost by: Steve S2 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:14 pm

I can't help noticing that with the steering wheel kept in a steady position my Plus 2 wanders around the straight ahead, just a little. Is it a case of 'they all do that sir' or do I have a winter project to strip and replace various front end components? If it's the latter, what are the likely culprits to check?
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PostPost by: peterako » Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:54 pm

Assuming it's not wind, tyre or road irregualrities then the answer is "no", it should not wander.

How are you holding the steering wheel?

When I replaced my steering rack, as the old one had some slop, I noticed that the car needed to be steered straight!

BUT....it was an incorrect 'noticing'.

1. I had tracked the front wheels OUT slightly....

Corrected this...still wandered a bit while going straight....

2. Decided to let go of the steering wheel on a nice smooth, straight, flat road where the car had been wandering....

It went straight....un-erringly!

I concluded that I was steering the car off line.

The steering on the Elan is VERY direct.
The tiniest movement on the steering wheel DOES move the steering.
Keeping the steering in a 'steady postition' does not really keep the steering steady :)

I now drive my car with the lightest of touch on the steering wheel. On straights I barely touch the steering wheel.

Check the toe-in and your driving style.

That's not to say that there could be something else, but the car itself as designed should not wander, but likes to be driven with a light touch compared to other classics (or even modern cars :) ).

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PostPost by: Steve S2 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:05 pm

What should the front toe be set to?
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:11 pm

All of the above apply. Once you have the tracking set right (Very important!) If it still wanders a little then you are going to have to check for play / lost motion in the complete steering system. The main culprit normally is the connection of the steering column to the rack. The original type has rubber parts in the flexible connection and they are prone to wear etc.. The newer type is better and last longer. Check it!

Then there is the rack itself.Track rod ends. Trunnions. etc etc...

You will find it.. :wink:

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:18 pm

Ball joints...

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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:49 pm

I think that it is very important that you check for play in all the steering components mentioned above before setting the tracking. Prime suspect has to be the universal joint on the end of the steering column. Fitting one from a Mini or Metro eliminates the rubber and costs bugger all. Next look at play in the track rod ends and the ball joints on the inboard end of the track-rods, then the pinion and rack. Only after eliminating any play in all of these is it worth trying to set the tracking. Reason? Because ALL of these will affect the direction the wheels are pointing when power comes on or goes off.

When set up correctly the Elan's steering is an absolute joy- that's what all the fuss has been about over the last 50 years!

Now: we are all assuming that your steering rack shims are correct.... :wink:
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:45 pm

My money is on a worn rack.
The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position.
You should feel some free play at the steering wheel if that is the case.
I've driven an S4 with the symptoms you've described; it had a worn rack.
Unfortunately the cure is replacement; localised wear is almost impossible to dial out.

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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:53 pm

GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:My money is on a worn rack.
The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. Absolutely
You should feel some free play at the steering wheel if that is the case. Obviously
I've driven an S4 with the symptoms you've described; it had a worn rack.Or track-rod ends, or ball-joints.
Unfortunately the cure is replacement of worn components, then do the tracking,; localised wear is almost impossible to dial out.

John


Agreed. :twisted:
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:03 pm

elansprint71 wrote:
GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:My money is on a worn rack.
The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. Absolutely
You should feel some free play at the steering wheel if that is the case. Obviously
I've driven an S4 with the symptoms you've described; it had a worn rack.Or track-rod ends, or ball-joints.
Nope! the rack was indeed worn; nothing else!
Unfortunately the cure is replacement of worn components, then do the tracking,; localised wear is almost impossible to dial out.

John


Agreed. :twisted:



Help, I've been "doctored" :roll:
Suppose that's about as agreeable as you'll ever get Pete
Note the preamble:- "my money is on-------"; not, "it can only be------" :wink:

John
Last edited by GrUmPyBoDgEr on Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:05 pm

GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:Suppose that's about as agreeable as you'll ever get Pete :wink:

John


I disagree.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:09 pm

elansprint71 wrote:
GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:Suppose that's about as agreeable as you'll ever get Pete :wink:

John


I disagree.


That was maybe a bit uncharitable of me :wink:
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:25 pm

GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. John

elansprint71 wrote:
GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote: The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. Absolutely


That can't be right! Don't you mean straight ahead +/- a few degrees either side? :wink:

(Whilst in the "straight ahead position" there's, presumably, no steering action. If there's no steering action, presumably, there's no load and if there's no load there should be no wear. :? :wink:)

Cheers - Richard
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:46 pm

ardee_selby wrote:
GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote:The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. John

elansprint71 wrote:
GrUmPyBoDgEr wrote: The rack often wears more on the straight ahead position. Absolutely


That can't be right! Don't you mean straight ahead +/- a few degrees either side? :wink:

(Whilst in the "straight ahead position" there's, presumably, no steering action. If there's no steering action, presumably, there's no load and if there's no load there should be no wear. :? :wink:)

Cheers - Richard


Well yes, sort of, the driver puts no load into the system but the road does, it tries to get the wheels to do what it wants them to, that's the feedback you feel through the steering wheel.
The straight on position is the most frequently "held" position, hence the localised wear often found in that position in steering racks.
If I remember correctly this rack wear subject has been discussed on here before?

Other components such as ball joint or rod end wear will make themselves noticeable under all driving conditions, not just "straight on", as has been described.

Cheers
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:13 am

elansprint71 wrote:I think that it is very important that you check for play in all the steering components mentioned above before setting the tracking. Prime suspect has to be the universal joint on the end of the steering column. Fitting one from a Mini or Metro eliminates the rubber and costs bugger all. Next look at play in the track rod ends and the ball joints on the inboard end of the track-rods, then the pinion and rack.



Ditto... :twisted:
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PostPost by: Tonyw » Sat Nov 12, 2011 3:52 am

If you car is "wandering" it would pay to have your basic wheel alignment checked, of course AFTER you have ascertained that you have no wear in all of the parts as described.

When you have the wheel alignment checked look at the caster angle as it is the Caster angle that gives the car directional stability that is a tendency for the car to drive in a straight line even with your hands off the steering wheel, a difference in caster from one side to the other will or may cause the car to pull in the direction of the side with most caster, Caster and camber I do not believe are adjustable. Knowing what the angles are and being assured that they are within specifications will eliminate one potential source of your problem.

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