Lotus Elan

Changing big ends and mains

PostPost by: rogerh » Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:54 pm

Hi, Just a quick check to see if there are any snags to dropping the sump and fitting new shells to my plus2 130. I have had a good look around and think that if I remove the lateral cross member, the anti roll bar and starter motor, it should be possible. Anyone done this?
Regards Roger H
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:31 pm

Roger

Yes I have done it and only 2 real additional problems compared to doing it on an engine stand, apart from lying on your back and dropping stuff on your face.

The biggest issue is removing and refitting the rear most 2 bolts in the sump pan each side of the rear crank seal between the pan and the flywheel. You will need a small 3/8 or 1/4 socket drive and universal joint to get in there. I use socket head bolts for the sump pan now as easier to get at with a ball headed hex key. Also be careful when refitting these 2 rear bolts not to cross thread or over tighten them as they go into the alloy crank seal housing not the cast iron block and it is easy to strip the threads, wise to helicoil these if any doubt about the thread condtion when the sump is off. The same cauton needs to be taken for the sump bolts that go into the front alloy chain casing but access here is easier so less of a problem

The other challenge is to hold the rear curved cork gasket segment in place that goes between the top of the rear crank seal and the pan as you refit the pan, I form it to the curve and stick it in place with Loctite No3 aviation gasket cement and seal the ends with a very small amounto of silicone sealant where it joins the main pan gaskets. I slao stick the main pan gaskets to the block with the gasket cement before fitting the pan. You can get gasket kits that have a rubber section for the seals at each end of the pan rather than the cork, use this type if you can get hold of it as easier to fit. It helps to have another pair of hands when refitting the pan to ensure all the gaskets are properly in place, hold up the pan and then refit the bolts

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: rogerh » Fri Feb 23, 2007 6:51 pm

Cheers Rohan,
Much as I thought, although I managed to get at the rear sump bolts fairly easily once the dust cover had been removed from the front of the bell housing. the more difficult one was at the front which required a long 1/4 inch drive to get between the sump and the main cross member.
All is off now and the shells are out awaiting the delivery of the parts-------many thanks RogerH
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